Fitted Paneled Jacket with Flap Pockets
Introducing a chic women's sewing pattern for a fitted, paneled jacket featuring short cap sleeves, a stand collar, and functional flap pockets.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is suitable for various occasions, offering a polished yet comfortable style:
- Business Casual: Perfect for adding a smart layer to office outfits or client meetings.
- Everyday Elegance: Elevates casual ensembles like jeans and a blouse, as seen in the styling inspiration.
- Transitional Weather: An ideal light outerwear piece for spring, summer evenings, or early autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, fitted silhouette with distinct vertical seaming that defines the waist and extends to a hip-length hem.
Neckline & Collar: Features a clean stand collar that transitions into a sophisticated V-neck opening at the front.
Front: Paneled construction on the front bodice provides a contoured shape, complemented by a single-button closure.
Closure: Single-breasted front secured with one button, creating a neat finish.
Sleeves: Short cap sleeves are seamlessly integrated into the shoulder and body panels, offering a contemporary look.
Pockets: Two functional flap pockets are strategically placed at the hip for practicality and style.
Back: Sculpted back design with central and side back panels ensuring a smooth, tailored fit.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires confident sewing skills, including working with multiple panels, constructing flap pockets, assembling a stand collar, and managing a fully lined garment with shoulder pads.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose suiting materials that offer structure and drape beautifully for a polished finish:
- Wool suiting fabrics
- Wool-blend suiting fabrics
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 1 button
- Lining fabric
- Small raglan shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Collar Stand - 2 pieces
- Back side – 2 pieces
- Back Center – 2 pieces
- Front Center – 2 pieces
- Front Upper Side – 2 pieces
- Front Lower Side – 2 pieces
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neck facing – 1 piece
- Back Hem facing — 1 piece
- Back sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front sleeve – 2 pieces
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Pocket Frame – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Front Center – 2 pieces
- Front Side – 2 pieces
- Back side - 2 pieces
- Back Center – 2 pieces
- Back sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front sleeve – 2 pieces
- Large Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
- Small Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neck facing – 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
Attention: front, back, and sleeve lining pieces are cut with the width of the front facings and back neck facing deducted, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the pieces. Fuse grain line tape to the lower edge of the upper front and the upper edge of the lower front. Fuse grain line tape to the pocket placement area on the back side. The grain line tape width is 2 cm.
- Stitch and press open the princess seams on the back. Attach the back sleeve parts to the back.
- Attach the upper side front to the center front from the upper edge to the lower notch. Press seams towards the center of the front. Attach the front sleeve parts to the front PANELs. Press seams open.
- Stitch the lower sleeve edges and side edges in one continuous seam. End the stitching at the lower edge of the upper side front. Press seams open. Attach the lower side front to the back side, aligning the pieces from the lower edge. Press seams open.
- Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn pieces right side out, and press.
- Mark the flap and frame attachment line on the back side (aligning with the flap width). Fold the pocket frames in half wrong sides together and press. Mark a guideline on the pocket frame for attachment parallel to the fold. Mark a guideline on the flap for attachment parallel to the upper edge of the flap. Attach the upper pocket bag to the flap. Attach the frames to the front. Start stitching strictly at the marked princess seam line of the front. Cut the back side along the line marked on the lekala. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the frames through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the frames so that the pressed folds of the frames meet flush. Secure the pocket corners from the inside with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the flap into the pocket and attach it to the upper pocket frame. Attach the lower pocket bag into the seam of the lower frame attachment. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- Baste the pocket frames together. Stitch the lower section of the front princess seam, folding back the pocket bags. Press the seam towards the center of the front.
- Stitch the center back seam. Press the seam open. Insert the upper collar into the neckline. Press the seam open.
- Stitch the shoulder and upper sleeve edges. Clip seam allowances at curves and press open. Insert shoulder pads.
- Insert the lower collar into the neckline facing. Press the seam open. Stitch the shoulder edges of the back neck facing and the front facing. Clip seam allowances at curves and press open. Attach the back hem facing to the front facing. Press seams open.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the sleeves, leaving an opening for subsequent turning in the upper of the left side seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and facings.
- Place the front facing with the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch the front edge, the upper collar edge, and the bottom of the jacket. The stitching is done from the front side. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge stitching onto the front facing. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the sleeve hem in 2 steps. Turn the sleeves and press.
- Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening. Remove the pocket basting.
- On the front PANELs, overlock the buttonhole and sew on the button.
