Stand Collar Zippered Leather Jacket
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a fitted jacket featuring a stand collar, zippered front closure, and tailored princess seams on both the front and back.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is suitable for various occasions, offering a stylish layer for:
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Everyday Chic: Perfect for creating a polished, yet comfortable, daily ensemble.
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Transitional Weather: An ideal outerwear piece for cooler mornings and evenings.
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Sophisticated Layering: Easily pairs over dresses or tops for a smart-casual or elevated look.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a fitted, hip-length jacket designed to hug the body contours with shaping seams.
Neckline & Collar: Features a clean, modern stand collar.
Closure: a prominent separating zipper runs down the center front for a secure and stylish closure.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves provide a tailored fit and enhanced range of motion.
Pockets: Angled zippered welt pockets are integrated into the front princess seams.
Front: Defined by a front yoke and princess seams that extend from the shoulder to the hem, offering structured shaping.
Back: Tailored with princess seams from the shoulder to the hem, meeting at a center back seam for a contoured fit.
Hem: a straight hemline provides a neat and classic finish.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with setting zippers, working with lining fabric, constructing tailored seams, and potentially handling specialized fabrics like leather or faux leather.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight fabrics with some body that can hold structure:
- Artificial leather
- Natural leather
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- 1 separating zipper for the front closure
- 2 zippers for the pockets
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back center – 2 pieces
- Back side – 2 pieces
- Front center – 2 pieces
- Front side – 2 pieces
- Front yoke — 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Sleeve upper – 2 pieces
- Sleeve lower – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back facing — 1 piece
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Underlay - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back center – 2 pieces
- Front center – 2 pieces
- Back side – 2 pieces
- Front side – 2 pieces
- Sleeve upper – 2 pieces
- Sleeve lower – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag — 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag — 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- On the back, stitch the darts. Press the seam allowances towards the center. On the back, stitch the princess seams. Press the seam allowances towards the center. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the center back seam. Press the seam allowance open.
- Stitch the grain line reinforcement to the large pocket bag. Mark the pocket placement on the front. Refine the pocket opening line. Cut the pocket opening. Make slanted cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the pocket seam allowances to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges. Adjust the end of the pocket from the wrong side. Stitch the lining right side to the wrong side of the zipper tape. Place the zipper under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible. Stitch the zipper, folding back the lining. Stitch the lining edges.
- On the front, stitch the princess seams. Press the seam allowances towards the center. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the yoke to the front. Press the seam allowance towards the yoke and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Stitch the seam on the lower sleeve. Press the seam allowance towards the back. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the upper sleeve to the lower. Clip the seam allowances and press them towards the lower. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Set the sleeves into the jacket. Attach the shoulder pads.
- Stitch the outer collar stand to the jacket neckline. Press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch the zipper.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam for turning. Set the sleeves. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and facing. Press the seam allowances open. Stitch the lining to the front facings and facing. Stitch the seams of the lower facings. Press the seam allowances open. Stitch the facings to the lining. Stitch the inner collar stand to the neckline. Press the seam allowance open.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and the collar stand. Stitch the bottom of the garment. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the sleeve. Attach the upper edge of the lower facing to the upper seams. Secure the seam allowances of the collar stand insertion seams together. Turn the jacket through the opening. Close the opening.
- Topstitch two parallel rows along the front edge and the bottom. 0.2 and 0.5 cm from the edge. Topstitch along the collar stand.
