Wrap Front Jacket with Pleats
Introducing a sophisticated women's jacket pattern featuring a distinctive asymmetric wrap-style front, an elegant shawl-style collar, and pleated detailing on the right front.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is perfect for adding a touch of modern elegance to various ensembles, suitable for:
-
Professional Settings: Ideal for office wear, business meetings, or smart casual professional attire.
-
Evening & Social Gatherings: a chic layer for dinner dates, cocktail parties, or upscale social events.
-
Everyday Elegance: Elevates casual outfits, adding a polished and contemporary finish to daily wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, fitted silhouette with a gently shaped waist, extending to hip length for a flattering line.
Neckline & Collar: Features an elegant V-neckline framed by a shawl-style collar with a center back seam, creating a sophisticated wrapped look.
Closure: an asymmetric closure: the right front with its buttonhole placket laps over the left front and fastens with two buttons, plus an inside button, offering a modern asymmetric appeal.
Front Detail: The right front is adorned with a group of angled pleats near the closure, adding texture and visual interest; the left front is shaped with a bust dart.
Sleeves: Full-length, two-piece set-in sleeves designed for a sleek, tailored finish.
Back: Constructed with a center back seam, darts, and princess seams extending from the armhole to the hem, ensuring a contoured and elegant fit.
Hem: a straight hemline; the overlapping right front ends in a slanted corner.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with tailoring techniques, including collar construction, a buttonhole placket, setting in sleeves, and working with lining and fusible interfacing.
Fabric Recommendations
Achieve the best drape and structure with suiting materials such as:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- 3 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Right Front – 1 piece
- Left Front – 1 piece
- Collar – 4 pieces
- Placket – 1 piece
- Right Center Front Facing – 1 piece
- Left Center Front Facing – 1 piece
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Right Front – 1 piece
- Left Front – 1 piece
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
The lining Center Back and the lining Left and Right Fronts are cut minus the width of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facings respectively.
From fusible interfacing: Placket, Left and Right Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, outer Collar (2 pieces), plus strips for the jacket hem and sleeve hem allowances.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Placket, Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, outer collar pieces, and the hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves.
- On the Center Back pieces, stitch the darts and press them towards the center. Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Back and Side Back and press them open. Stitch the center back seam and press it open.
- On the Left Front, stitch the bust dart, cut it open and press it open. On the Right Front, stitch and press the pleats along the markings (folded downwards). Press the Placket in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and stitch its outer side to the Right Front.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch the center back seams of the upper and under collars and press the allowances open. Place the collars right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip at curves. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Attach the collar to the neckline.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facings and press them open. Stitch the Right Center Front Facing to the inner side of the Placket. Place the facings on the jacket right sides together and stitch along the left front edge, the neckline and the lower corners, stopping 1.5 cm from the inner edge of the facing. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip at curves. Turn the front edges to the right side, shape the seams.
- Stitch the elbow seam joining the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve and press it open. Press the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Attach the sleeves to the armholes, matching notches, easing the sleeve cap. Sew in the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and attach the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
- Make buttonholes on the Placket and sew the buttons onto the Left Front. Make a buttonhole on the Left Front and sew the inside button to the Right Front to match.
