Tailored Jacket with Mock Double Welt Pockets
A stylish tailored jacket pattern, fully lined, featuring wide and deep sweethear neckline, a chic three-button front closure, and mock double welt pockets, cinched by a distinctive buckled belt.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is suitable for various occasions, providing a polished look for:
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Professional Settings: Its tailored structure and classic details make it perfect for office wear or business meetings.
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Smart Casual Outings: Elevates everyday attire, ideal for brunches, dinners, or casual social gatherings.
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Transitional Weather: a practical and stylish layering piece for cooler seasons or air-conditioned environments.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a fitted, hip-length jacket with shaping seams for a flattering profile and a subtle peplum effect.
Neckline & Collar: Wide and deep sweetheart neckline, providing a timeless and smart aesthetic.
Closure: Single-breasted front with a three-button closure for a neat and secure fit.
Sleeves: Elegant three-quarter length, two-piece set-in sleeves, offering ease of movement and a contemporary touch.
Pockets: Mock double welt pockets integrated into the side fronts.
Waist: Defined by a continuous self-fabric belt with a buckle closure, emphasizing the waistline.
Back: Features vertical seaming for structure and fit.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires skills in lining garments, setting in two-piece sleeves, constructing shaped neckline, and creating double welt pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose stable fabrics with good drape and structure:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- 4 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Fusible interfacing
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center Back – 2 pieces
- 2. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 3. Center Front — 2 pieces
- 5. Side Front — 2 pieces
- 6. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 7. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 8. Back Neck Facing – 1 piece
- 9. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 10. Pocket Underlay - 2 pieces
- 11. Upper Welt -2 pieces
- 12. Lower Welt — 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Center Back – 2 pieces
- 2. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 3. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 4. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 5. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- The sleeve lining pieces, as well as the lining pieces for the center and side back, are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the back neck facing.
- From fusible interfacing: center front, upper and lower welts, center front facing, back neck facing, sleeve hem.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the designated pieces.
- On the back, stitch the dart. Press the dart depth towards the center. Stitch the princess seam. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the center back seam. Press seam allowances open.
- Fold the pocket welts in half lengthwise and press. Place the welts onto the front pieces: the upper welt onto the front, the lower welt onto the side front, and stitch. Turn, smooth, and press the welts. Place the underlay on the wrong side and stitch into the welt attachment seams.
- Press the hem allowance on the side front. Stitch the front dart. The seam should end exactly at the hemline. Trim the dart depth to 1 cm, press the seam open.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the jacket. Clip the shoulder seams, press the seams open.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press the seam allowance open. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve. Set the sleeves into the armholes, easing the sleeve cap. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the center front facings and back neck facing. Clip and press seam allowances open. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left elbow seam. Set in the sleeves.
- Place the center front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge, simultaneously stitching the neckline. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked hemline. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn the pieces right side out, and press.
- Stitch the lining to the center front facings and back neck facing. Stitch the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the technological opening. Close the opening.
- Work buttonholes and sew on buttons. The jacket is recommended to be worn with a decorative belt.
