Jacket with High-Low Peplum
Introducing a tailored and lined jacket pattern, distinguished by its fitted bodice, shawl collar, sculptural high-low peplum, and sophisticated single-button closure.
When To Wear
This elegant garment is ideal for a range of occasions, offering both professionalism and refined style:
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Professional Settings: Its tailored fit and structured design make it perfect for office or business meetings.
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Evening & Semi-Formal Gatherings: The elegant peplum and refined cut offer a sophisticated look for dinners or social events.
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Stylish Everyday Wear: Pair with smart trousers or a skirt for an elevated daily ensemble.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the torso, cinched at the natural waist, and flaring into a high-low peplum.
Neckline & Collar: a deep V-neckline with a shawl collar.
Closure: Single-breasted front with a single button positioned at the waist.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves for a refined and tailored arm line.
Back: Features princess seams, back darts and a centre back seam for shaping, extending into a gracefully curved, longer peplum hem.
Hem: Distinctive high-low peplum, shorter and rounded at the front, elegantly extending and curving longer towards the back.
Waist: Defined natural waistline accentuated by the attachment of the peplum.
Length: Cropped to the upper hip at the front, gradually lengthening towards the lower hip at the back.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires precise fitting, accurate construction of princess seams, constructing a shawl collar, setting two-piece sleeves, and bagging out the lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose well-draping suiting fabrics that offer both structure and elegance:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- 1 button
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 1 piece
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 1 piece
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front, Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, sleeve hem allowance.
Attention: the front and back lining pieces are cut from the main pattern pieces, minus the width of the Center Front Facing and the Back Neckline Facing respectively.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the pieces listed above.
- On the back, stitch the darts and press them towards the center. Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Front to the Side Front and the Center Back to the Side Back; press open. Stitch the center back seam and press open.
- Stitch the side seams of the jacket and press open. Stitch the shoulder seams, clip into the corner and press the allowances open. Stitch the center back seam of the collar and press open. Stitch the collar into the back neckline and press the allowances open.
- Stitch the side seams of the Lower Back and Lower Front pieces and press open. Assemble the lining peplum pieces the same way. Place the main peplum and the lining peplum right sides together and stitch along the lower edge. Clip the allowances on the curves, turn right side out and press. Stitch the peplum to the lower edge of the jacket (the front edge allowances of the jacket extend 1 cm beyond the peplum).
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facings, clip into the corner and press open. Stitch the center back seam of the facing collar and press open. Stitch the facing collar into the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing and press the allowances open.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, pin and stitch all around the front edge and the outer edge of the collar. Clip the allowances on the curves. Turn the fronts right side out, roll the seams to the inside and press.
- Stitch the back (elbow) seam of the sleeve and press open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches and easing the sleeve cap. Sew in the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch the seams of the lining pieces and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right lining sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Turn the facings with the lining to the wrong side and stitch them to the jacket, sandwiching the peplum between the main fabric and the lining. Stitch the lining to the sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Tack the collar seam allowances of the jacket and facing together close to the seams. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
- On the right front, make a buttonhole, and on the left front, sew on a button.
