Jacket with High-Low Peplum
A fitted, fully lined women's jacket with a shawl collar, a single-button front at the waist and a peplum seamed on at the waist, short and rounded at the front and longer at the back. Princess seams front and back and two-piece set-in sleeves.
When To Wear
- To the office over a pencil skirt or slim trousers.
- Over a dress or a fitted top for dinners and daytime events in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted to the waist with princess seams on the front and back, then flaring into the peplum.
Length: High-low: the peplum is short and curved away at the front and drops longer at the back.
Collar: Shawl collar cut in one with the centre fronts, joined with a centre back seam and set into the back neckline; the facing collar is made the same way and stitched to the jacket around the front edges and collar edge.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with an eased cap, 3 cm hem allowance; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Closure: Single-breasted, one button at the waist seam with a buttonhole on the right front.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts in the bodice; the back peplum is one piece.
Waist: Horizontal waist seam joining the bodice to the peplum (lower front and lower back pieces).
Lining: Full lining with lined sleeves. The peplum is lined first and enclosed between the jacket and the lining at the waist; the jacket is turned through an opening in the right lining sleeve.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A cut-on shawl collar with a centre back seam, princess seams, two-piece sleeves with an eased cap, a separately lined peplum and a fully bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabric with good drape, from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neckline facing, sleeve hems)
- 1 button
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 1 piece
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 1 piece
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front, Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, sleeve hem allowance.
Attention: the front and back lining pieces are cut from the main pattern pieces, minus the width of the Center Front Facing and the Back Neckline Facing respectively.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the pieces listed above.
- On the back, stitch the darts and press them towards the center. Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Front to the Side Front and the Center Back to the Side Back; press open. Stitch the center back seam and press open.
- Stitch the side seams of the jacket and press open. Stitch the shoulder seams, clip into the corner and press the allowances open. Stitch the center back seam of the collar and press open. Stitch the collar into the back neckline and press the allowances open.
- Stitch the side seams of the Lower Back and Lower Front pieces and press open. Assemble the lining peplum pieces the same way. Place the main peplum and the lining peplum right sides together and stitch along the lower edge. Clip the allowances on the curves, turn right side out and press. Stitch the peplum to the lower edge of the jacket (the front edge allowances of the jacket extend 1 cm beyond the peplum).
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facings, clip into the corner and press open. Stitch the center back seam of the facing collar and press open. Stitch the facing collar into the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing and press the allowances open.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, pin and stitch all around the front edge and the outer edge of the collar. Clip the allowances on the curves. Turn the fronts right side out, roll the seams to the inside and press.
- Stitch the back (elbow) seam of the sleeve and press open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches and easing the sleeve cap. Sew in the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch the seams of the lining pieces and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right lining sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Turn the facings with the lining to the wrong side and stitch them to the jacket, sandwiching the peplum between the main fabric and the lining. Stitch the lining to the sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Tack the collar seam allowances of the jacket and facing together close to the seams. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
- On the right front, make a buttonhole, and on the left front, sew on a button.
