Wrap Front Jacket with Pleats

Name: Wrap Front Jacket with Pleats
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4303
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4303

A hip-length, fully lined women's jacket with an asymmetric front: the right front laps diagonally over the left and fastens with buttons through a placket. A shawl-shaped collar, folded pleats at the side of the right front and two-piece set-in sleeves. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: fine suiting fabric from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Wrap Front Jacket with Pleats

When To Wear

To the office with a straight skirt or trousers.
Over a fine knit or a slip dress in spring and autumn.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams and darts on the back and a bust dart on the left front.

Length: Hip length; the lapping right front ends in a slanted corner at the hem.

Collar: Separate shawl-shaped collar, cut as upper and under collar, each with a centre back seam; the outer collar is interfaced.

Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with an eased cap; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

Front: Asymmetric. A placket, folded in half, is stitched to the right front edge and carries the buttonholes; buttons are sewn on the left front. A third button inside holds the left front in place. Pleats on the right front at the side are stitched and pressed downwards.

Back: Centre back seam, princess seams from the armhole and darts.

Finishing: Hem and sleeve hem allowances 3.5 cm, interfaced.

Lining: Full lining with lined sleeves, attached to the facings and hems; the jacket is turned through an opening in the right lining sleeve.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. An asymmetric front with a buttonhole placket and separate left and right facings, a two-layer collar, two-piece sleeves with an eased cap and a bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Fine suiting fabric from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (placket, front facings, back neckline facing, outer collar, jacket and sleeve hems)
3 buttons (2 on the front, 1 inside)
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:

Center Back – 2 pieces
Side Back – 2 pieces
Right Front – 1 piece
Left Front – 1 piece
Collar – 4 pieces
Placket – 1 piece
Right Center Front Facing – 1 piece
Left Center Front Facing – 1 piece
Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces

From lining fabric:

Right Front – 1 piece
Left Front – 1 piece
Center Back – 2 pieces
Side Back – 2 pieces
Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces

The lining Center Back and the lining Left and Right Fronts are cut minus the width of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facings respectively.

From fusible interfacing: Placket, Left and Right Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, outer Collar (2 pieces), plus strips for the jacket hem and sleeve hem allowances.

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the Placket, Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, outer collar pieces, and the hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves.
On the Center Back pieces, stitch the darts and press them towards the center. Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Back and Side Back and press them open. Stitch the center back seam and press it open.
On the Left Front, stitch the bust dart, cut it open and press it open. On the Right Front, stitch and press the pleats along the markings (folded downwards). Press the Placket in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and stitch its outer side to the Right Front.
Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
Stitch the center back seams of the upper and under collars and press the allowances open. Place the collars right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip at curves. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Attach the collar to the neckline.
Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facings and press them open. Stitch the Right Center Front Facing to the inner side of the Placket. Place the facings on the jacket right sides together and stitch along the left front edge, the neckline and the lower corners, stopping 1.5 cm from the inner edge of the facing. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip at curves. Turn the front edges to the right side, shape the seams.
Stitch the elbow seam joining the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve and press it open. Press the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
Attach the sleeves to the armholes, matching notches, easing the sleeve cap. Sew in the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and attach the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
Make buttonholes on the Placket and sew the buttons onto the Left Front. Make a buttonhole on the Left Front and sew the inside button to the Right Front to match.