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#4011
#4013

Wave Pleat Pencil Skirt

Pattern #4012

A women's above-the-knee pencil skirt whose front is covered with horizontal stitched pleats; from the second pleat down, each pleat is folded back up along a marked line, which gives the wave pattern. Shaped yokes at the top, a centre back invisible zipper and a back slit. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: thin suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres, preferably with added elastane.

Tech. Description

Wave Pleat Pencil Skirt

A women's above-the-knee pencil skirt whose front is covered with horizontal stitched pleats; from the second pleat down, each pleat is folded back up along a marked line, which gives the wave pattern. Shaped yokes at the top, a centre back invisible zipper and a back slit.

When To Wear

  • At the office with a plain blouse or a fitted knit top, so the pleated front stays the focus.
  • In autumn and spring with tights and a short jacket.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, straight pencil shape.

Length: Above the knee.

Front: One front panel with horizontal pleats stitched along markings and pressed downwards; the pleat depths are turned up and secured along a central marked line, forming curved waves. The front hem is finished before the pleats are made.

Waist: No waistband: fused front and back yokes, faced with inner yokes that are topstitched into the yoke seam and sewn to the zipper tape.

Back: Two back panels with a dart each under the yoke, a centre back seam and a slit at the hem, held by a stitching line 0.1 cm from its edge.

Closure: Invisible zipper in the centre back seam.

Finishing: The back hem allowance is folded up around the front panel at the side seams and topstitched; the hem allowance equals the pleat width plus 0.5 cm.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Accurate marking and stitching of a series of pleats, folding them into waves along a line, an invisible zipper and a faced yoke.

Fabric Recommendations

Thin suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres, preferably with added elastane.

Additional Supplies

  • Fusible interfacing (front and back yokes)
  • 1 invisible zipper

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. The hem allowance of the product is equal to the pleat width + 0.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need. When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Inscriptions on the patterns are made on the right side.

  • From main fabric:
    • Back – 2 pieces
    • Front – 1 piece
    • Back yoke – 4 pieces
    • Front yoke – 2 pieces
  • From fusible interfacing:
    • Back yoke – 2 pieces
    • Front yoke – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

  1. Reinforce the yokes with fusible interfacing.
  2. Stitch the darts on the back pieces, press the depths towards the center. Attach the back yokes to the back panels. Overlock the seams and press them upwards. Overlock the center edge of the back halves separately. Stitch the center edge from the notch for the zipper to the slit. Press the seams open. Insert the zipper, press the seam. Overlock the bottom edge.
  3. Overlock, press, and topstitch the hem allowance of the front half.
  4. Stitch the pleats according to the markings. Press the pleats downwards. Starting from the second pleat from the top, along the marking line, fold the depth of each pleat upwards to the stitching line. Secure the pleats strictly along the marked line. Press the front.
  5. Attach the front yoke to the front. Overlock the seam and press it upwards.
  6. Fold the pieces along the side seam, aligning from the top edge. Fold the hem allowance of the back upwards, overlapping the front skirt. Stitch, overlock, and press the side seams. Turn the skirt right side out. Topstitch the hem allowance onto the back. Press the slit. Stitch a reinforcing line 0.1 cm along the slit.
  7. Stitch the side seams of the inner yokes. Overlock the bottom edge. Place the yoke with the skirt right sides together and face the top edge. Topstitch the seam allowances to the inner yoke at a distance of 0.2 cm from the facing seam. Fold the facings to the wrong side, press. Fold the center edges of the inner yoke and sew to the zipper tape. Topstitch the inner yoke into the seam of the outer yoke attachment.

Features

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Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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