Draped Bubble Skirt with Wide Yoke

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: well-draping KNIT fabric of medium stretch from natural or blended fibers, SUITING fabric. Also needed: FUSIBLE INTERFACING, concealed ZIPPER, WEIGHTS.

CUTTER'S MUST

If the patterns have a double contour, they include SEAM ALLOWANCES. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: hem allowance – 1.5 cm, other seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need. When stitching pieces, pay attention to the NOTCHES - they must match!

• From SUITING fabric:
  • BACK YOKE – 4 pieces
  • FRONT YOKE – 2 pieces
• From KNIT fabric:
  • BACK PANEL — 2 pieces
  • FRONT PANEL — 1 piece on fold
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
  • BACK YOKE – 2 pieces
  • FRONT YOKE – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

Tip: Cut pieces from KNIT fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.7 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread serger.

1. Reinforce the outer YOKE pieces with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
2. Stitch the side seams of the skirt. Serge the seam and press it open. Stitch the slanted seam of the skirt. Serge the seam and press it open (an angle should be formed). Stitch the center seam of the back panel from the zipper NOTCH downwards. Press the seam open.
3. Stitch the side seams of the YOKES. Serge the seams and press them towards the back.
4. On the front and back panels, create and secure the pleats. The pleat depths are directed towards the center of the piece. Attach the skirt panels to the outer YOKES. Serge the seam and press it upwards. Insert the ZIPPER into the center seam.
5. Serge the bottom edge of the inner YOKES. Place the YOKES right sides together and align along the top edge. Before reaching 5 mm from the edges of the concealed fastener, fold back the inner YOKE and pin it to the top edge of the skirt. On the right side of the skirt, fold back the seam allowances along the ZIPPER and pin them to the top edge over the facing. Stitch the top edge. Clip the seam at the curves, turn the pieces right side out, and press. Fold the seam allowances along the fastener to the wrong side and attach them to the zipper tape. Topstitch the inner YOKE into the seam attaching the lower part of the skirt.
6. Serge the bottom edge of the skirt, fold up, and topstitch.
7. Create drapery on the skirt. Tuck the skirt corners inwards and sew WEIGHTS to them.