Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: thin suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. Also needed: fusible interfacing; 1 invisible zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 3 cm. Slit facing inner edge allowance – 0 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need. Markings on patterns are made on the right side.
- From main fabric:
- Back panel – 2 pieces
- Front panel – 1 piece
- Overlay panel – 1 piece
- Back facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 1 piece
- Left part of overlay panel – 1 piece
- Bow – 2 pieces
- Bridge – 1 piece
- Slit facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 1 piece
- Slit facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Reinforce the upper edge facings and slit facings with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch darts on the back panel pieces, press the dart depths towards the center.
- Overlock the center edges of the back panel. Stitch the center edge of the back panel from the zipper mark to the slit mark. Press seams open, pressing the slit for the zipper. Insert the zipper.
- Overlock the outer edges of the slit facings. Face the slit with facings from the mark to the bottom. Face the bottom corner of the slit exactly along the marked hemline. Trim seam allowances. Turn the facing to the wrong side, shaping the bottom corner.
- Overlock the overlay panel edges: upper, bias, and lower. Face the bottom corner, turn to the right side. Press the upper, bias, and lower edges to the wrong side and topstitch: upper and bias at 0.2 cm from the edge, lower at 3.0 cm. Lay the center edge in pleats to the desired length, secure and overlock. Place the overlay panel on the front panel and secure along the side edge (note that the side edge of the overlay panel is 1 cm shorter at the top and 3 cm shorter at the bottom).
- Overlock the left part of the overlay panel along the upper and lower sides. Press the upper and lower sides to the wrong side, topstitch at 0.2 cm from the edge. Place the left overlay part on the front panel between the marks on the side edge, lay in pleats to the desired length and secure. Lay the center edge of the left overlay panel in pleats, secure, overlock and stitch it to the right overlay panel. Press seams open.
- Stitch the side edges, press seam allowances towards the back panel and overlock.
- Stitch the side edges of the facings. Overlock the lower edge. Place the facing with the skirt right sides together and face the upper edge. Topstitch seam allowances to the facing at 0.2 cm from the facing seam. Fold the facings to the wrong side, press. Fold the center edges of the facing and sew to the zipper tape.
- Overlock the lower edge of the skirt, press to the wrong side and topstitch with a 3.0 cm seam according to the technical drawing, securing the facing.
- Place the bow pieces right sides together and stitch around the perimeter, leaving an opening for turning in the middle of the upper or lower edge (which will not be visible under the bridge). Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the bow to the right side, press, stitch the opening closed.
- Stitch the longitudinal edges of the bridge, press seam allowances open, positioning the seam in the middle of the piece. Overlock the short edges. Wrap the bridge around the seam of the overlay panels and stitch the bridge into a loop. Thread the bow through the bridge, attach. Attach the bridge to the front panel according to the markings.
