Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers, guipure or lace fabric. Also needed: lining, fusible interfacing; 1 invisible zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance on main fabric pieces – 2 cm, hem allowance on lining and guipure insert pieces – 1.5 cm, allowance on the section from the mark to the bottom on the right and left front panels — 1.5 cm, other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need. When stitching pieces, pay attention to the NOTCHES - they must match! Inscriptions on patterns are on the right side.
- From main fabric:
- Back panel – 1 piece
- Right front panel – 1 piece
- Left front panel – 1 piece
- Back facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back lining half — 1 piece
- Upper lining part — 1 piece
- Side lining part — 2 pieces
- From guipure:
- Insert — 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to facings. Fuse bias edge tape to the bias cut on the right front panel. Tape width 1.5 cm.
- Stitch front panels from the upper edge to the mark. Clip seam allowances on pieces near the mark. Overlock the seam from the upper edge to the mark and press towards the right side seam. Overlock and press the allowances along the slit on the right and left pieces.
- Stitch darts on back panel pieces, press depths towards the center.
- Stitch the right side seam. Overlock the seam and press towards the back. Overlock the left side seam separately. Stitch the left side seam from the zipper notch to the bottom. Press seams open. Insert the invisible zipper, press the seam.
- Overlock the hem allowance, press and hem with blind stitches. Topstitch the allowances along the slit on the front panel along the fold at 0.7 cm. Place a bar tack at the corner of the slit.
- Attach the guipure insert to the side lining pieces. Overlock the seam and press towards the side seam. Attach the upper lining part, overlock the seam and press upwards. On the back lining half, lay the dart depths into soft pleats and secure. Stitch, overlock and press the right side seam of the lining. Stitch, overlock and press the right side seam of the facings. Attach facings to the lining, overlock the seam and press downwards. Stitch the left side seam of the lining, leaving the opening for the zipper. Overlock the seam and press.
- Place the lining and skirt right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Topstitch the allowances to the facing at a distance of 0.2 cm from the stitching line. Fold the lining to the wrong side, press. Fold the open edges of the lining and sew to the zipper tape. Overlock, fold and topstitch the lower edge of the lining.
