Asymmetrical Zip Jacket with High Turn-Down Collar
A women's hip-length jacket for knit fabric with medium stretch, with an asymmetric zipper set into the left front princess seam, a high turn-down collar, pockets in the side fronts, a hem band and cuffs.
When To Wear
- As a warm layer in autumn and spring, over T-shirts and jumpers.
- For everyday wear and walks, with jeans or knit trousers.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, with princess seams on the front and back.
Length: Hip length, finished with a band that is slightly stretched as it is sewn on.
Collar: High turn-down collar of two pieces, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge; the attachment seam is covered with bias binding.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with folded cuffs.
Closure: Zipper running from the hem band along the left princess seam to the collar, wrapped by the ends of the band.
Pockets: Curved pocket openings on the side fronts, bound with bias binding cut from the main fabric; pocket bags stitched to the side fronts along a curved line.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Finishing: Seams serged; princess, centre back, shoulder and armhole seams topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. An off-centre zipper set into a seam and the hem band, bias-bound pocket openings, sewing knits with stretch stitch and a twin needle.
Fabric Recommendations
French terry or fleece with medium stretch, in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Zipper
- Bias binding in the colour of the main fabric
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Pocket opening allowance - 0 cm. All other allowances 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need. When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center right front – 1 piece
- Center left front – 1 piece
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Bottom band – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Pocket lining – 2 pieces
Attention! Markings on patterns are made on the right side. Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is stitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity.
Sewing Instructions
- Cut bias binding equal to the length of the pocket opening from the main fabric. Fold in half lengthwise and press. Unfold and press longitudinal edges to the center. Fold in half lengthwise and press. Bind the pocket opening with bias binding. Serge the rounded edge of the pocket lining. Place the side front onto the lining and stitch along the rounded line. Secure the lining and side front along the bottom edge with a stitch 0.5 cm from the bottom.
- Stitch the back princess seams. Serge allowances and press towards the center. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the center back seam. Serge allowances and press to the left side and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the right front princess seam. Serge allowance, press towards the side seam and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the side seams. Serge allowances and press towards the back.
- Serge the outer edge of the center left front. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch.
- Attach the upper edge of the bottom band to the lower edge of the hoodie, slightly stretching the band. Serge the lower edge of the band. Place the left side of the zipper onto the left princess seam, starting from the fold of the bottom band and ending at the zipper mark with teeth towards the side seam. Place the center left front onto the zipper, wrap the zipper with the lower of the band, and stitch with one seam. Turn the band right side out. Serge allowance and press towards the side seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Serge the outer edge of the right center front. Place the right side of the zipper onto the outer edge of the right front, starting from the fold of the bottom band and ending at the upper edge with teeth towards the side seam. Wrap the zipper with the lower of the band and stitch. Turn the band to the right side. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Fold the inner edge of the band upwards and stitch into the seam of attaching the outer of the band.
- Stitch the shoulder seams. Serge allowances, press towards the back and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Fold the collars right sides together and stitch along the outer edge. Turn the collar right side out and press. Topstitch along the outer edge 0.5 cm from the edge. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the hoodie and collar pieces right sides together. Place the bias binding onto the collar edge and align the edges. Stitch the collar and hoodie pieces together with the bias binding. Fold the bias binding back and topstitch it onto the hoodie, thereby covering the collar attachment seam. Fold the ends of the bias binding inwards.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Serge allowance and press towards the back of the sleeve. Fold the cuff right sides together and stitch into a loop. Turn the cuff right side out. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise and attach to the sleeve. Serge allowance. Set in the sleeves, matching notches. Serge the seam and press towards the front and back. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
