Blazer with Gathered Sleeve
Introduce a sophisticated women's sewing pattern for a tailored, hip-length blazer, featuring a collarless neckline, elegant button-front closure, and distinctive gathered sleeves.
When To Wear
This versatile blazer is perfect for adding a polished touch to various ensembles, making it suitable for:
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Business & Office Attire: Ideal for professional settings, offering a sleek and put-together look.
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Smart Casual & Daywear: Elevates everyday outfits with its tailored silhouette and distinctive details.
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Dressy Layering: a chic outer layer for semi-formal gatherings or evening events.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a fitted, hip-length blazer with tailored princess seams on both front and back panels.
Neckline: a clean, collarless rounded neckline that transitions into a subtle V-shaped front opening.
Closure: Single-breasted front with a three-button closure.
Sleeves: Three-quarter length, two-piece sleeves featuring elegant gathers at the sleeve cap for added volume and shape.
Shoulders: Designed with thin shoulder pads to create a subtle, structured shoulder line.
Back: Defined by tailored princess seams that flow from the shoulder down to the hem, ensuring a contoured fit.
Lining: Fully lined for a smooth finish and comfortable wear.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with tailoring techniques such as sewing princess seams, setting in gathered sleeves, constructing a lining, and applying interfacing & shoulder pads.
Fabric Recommendations
Select fabrics that offer structure while allowing for a smooth drape and tailoring:
- Thin suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- Thin shoulder pads
- 3 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve bottom 3.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front sleeve insert – 2 pieces
- Back sleeve – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back hem facing — 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- Front facing
- Back neckline facing
- Back hem facing
- Center front
- Side front
Attention: back and front pieces from lining fabric are cut deducting the width of the back neckline facing, back hem facing, and front facing respectively.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the princess seam on the front. Press the princess seam open on the front.
- Stitch and press open the princess seams on the back. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neckline facing and front facing. Attach the back hem facing to the front facing. Press seams open.
- Along the front edge of the sleeve between marks "o", stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Attach the front sleeve insert. Press the seam towards the front sleeve seam.
- Attach the back sleeve insert. Press the seam towards the back insert. Stitch and press open the sleeve seam.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left side seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and facings.
- Along the front neckline of the front piece, apply an additional fusible stay tape. Place the front facing with its facing right side down onto the right side of the front piece, pin, and stitch the front edge, front neckline, back neckline, and bottom of the jacket. Stitching is done from the front piece side. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.
- On the right front piece, make buttonholes; on the left front piece, sew on buttons.
