Blazer with Gathered Sleeve

Name: Blazer with Gathered Sleeve
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4010
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4010

A women's collarless fitted jacket at hip level, with princess seams front and back, a three-button front with rounded lower corners and short sleeves gathered along the front sleeve seam. Fully lined, with thin shoulder pads. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: lightweight suiting fabrics in natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Blazer with Gathered Sleeve

When To Wear

Over dresses, or with a skirt or trousers and a top, for the office.
In spring and summer as a light jacket.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams from the shoulder on the front and back.

Length: Hip level; front edges rounded at the hem.

Neckline: Round collarless neckline with a small notch at the centre front; the front neckline is stabilised with fusible stay tape.

Sleeves: Above-elbow sleeves in three parts (sleeve, front insert, back insert); the sleeve is gathered between marks along the front insert seam. Eased caps, thin shoulder pads, 3.5 cm hem allowance.

Closure: Single-breasted, three buttons with buttonholes on the right front.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams; back neck facing and back hem facing.

Finishing: Front edge, neckline and hem faced in one pass; the front edge understitched 0.2 cm from the seam.

Lining: Full lining cut to the facings, turned through an opening in the left side seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams, a gathered three-part sleeve, a collarless neckline faced with the front edge and hem, a bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Lightweight suiting fabrics in natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, back hem facing, centre and side fronts)
Fusible stay tape for the front neckline
Thin shoulder pads
3 buttons

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve bottom 3.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front sleeve insert – 2 pieces
- Back sleeve – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back hem facing — 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve lining – 2 pieces
From fusible interlining:
- Front facing
- Back neckline facing
- Back hem facing
- Center front
- Side front

Attention: back and front pieces from lining fabric are cut deducting the width of the back neckline facing, back hem facing, and front facing respectively.

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
Stitch the princess seam on the front. Press the princess seam open on the front.
Stitch and press open the princess seams on the back. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neckline facing and front facing. Attach the back hem facing to the front facing. Press seams open.
Along the front edge of the sleeve between marks "o", stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Attach the front sleeve insert. Press the seam towards the front sleeve seam.
Attach the back sleeve insert. Press the seam towards the back insert. Stitch and press open the sleeve seam.
Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left side seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and facings.
Along the front neckline of the front piece, apply an additional fusible stay tape. Place the front facing with its facing right side down onto the right side of the front piece, pin, and stitch the front edge, front neckline, back neckline, and bottom of the jacket. Stitching is done from the front piece side. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam.
Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.
On the right front piece, make buttonholes; on the left front piece, sew on buttons.