Henley Blouse with Roll Up Sleeves
A women's mid-thigh-length blouse with front and back yokes, gathers below the yokes, a Henley placket with a pointed lower end and sleeves made of a plain upper part and a gathered lower part, held up by a buttoned tab.
When To Wear
- In spring and summer with jeans, chinos or a straight skirt.
- At work under a cardigan or a light jacket.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, loose fit; the lower front and back are gathered into the yokes.
Length: Mid-thigh length, straight hem.
Neckline: Round neckline finished with a fused two-layer facing band.
Front: Two front yokes and a lower front with a topstitched button placket; the right placket ends in a point secured from the right side. Four buttons on the placket.
Back: Back yoke and a lower back cut on the fold, gathered into the yoke.
Sleeves: Set-in, each in two parts: a plain upper sleeve and a gathered lower sleeve. The lower sleeve has a slit bound with bias binding. A tab is caught in the seam between the two parts and buttons onto the sleeve to hold it rolled up.
Finishing: Fused cuffs that are purely decorative and do not open, each with a button and buttonhole; hem turned twice by 1 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A two-piece Henley placket with a pointed end, gathering into yokes, sleeve slits bound with bias, tabs set into a seam and attached cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Light blouse fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (plackets, neck facing, cuffs)
- 8 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance – 2 cm, other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). Attention! In this model, the cuffs serve a purely decorative function (they do not fasten).
- From main fabric:
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 1 piece
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Lower back – 1 piece on fold
- Placket – 4 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Neck facing – 2 pieces
- Tab – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Neck facing – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the plackets, neck facing, and cuffs.
- Along the upper edges of the lower front and back pieces, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather.
- Attach the lower front and back pieces to the yokes. Overlock seams and press upwards.
- Fold plackets in pairs right sides together and stitch: the left placket along the outer edge to the bottom (to the start of the corner), the right placket along the outer edge and corner to the notch. On the right placket, clip the seam allowance at the notch. Turn pieces right side out and press. On the front, clip the placket allowance, stopping 1 mm before the seam line. Attach the outer parts of the plackets to the front. Turn the left placket to the right side, tucking the bottom allowance inwards. Turn the right placket to the right side, smoothing out the bottom corner from the right side. Fold the allowances of the inner plackets inwards. Stitch a topstitch along the plackets, simultaneously attaching the inner edge. Secure the bottom corner of the right placket from the right side.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams. Overlock seams and press towards the back.
- Fold neck facings right sides together and stitch along the inner edge and short sides. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked line for attaching the facing to the neckline. Turn right side out, clipping curves. Attach the outer facing to the neckline. Fold the allowance of the inner facing and topstitch into the seam of the outer facing.
- Cut the lower sleeve piece along the marking. Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and equal to twice the length of the sleeve slit. Fold the binding in half lengthwise and press. Unfold the binding. Direct the outer edges of the binding to the center of the binding and press. Fold in half again and press. Finish the sleeve slits with bias binding.
- Fold tabs in pairs and stitch along two long sides and the corner. Turn right side out, trimming allowances at corners, straighten and press. Along the upper edge of the lower sleeve piece, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Stitch the lower and upper sleeve pieces, inserting the tab into the seam from the wrong side. Stitch the sleeve seam. Overlock and press towards the back of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes. Overlock seam and press.
- Fold cuffs in half right sides together and stitch short sides. Turn cuffs right side out and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve. Fold under the inner side of the cuff and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Hem the bottom of the garment by folding twice by 1 cm to the wrong side and topstitching.
- On the right front, cuffs, and tabs, make buttonholes. On the left front, cuff, and sleeve, sew on buttons.
