Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: light dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Also needed: fusible interlining, 3 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all allowances - 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED.
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 1 piece
- Waistband – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- Waistband – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse the upper collar stand and waistband with fusible interlining.
- Cut a bias binding for finishing the back slit. The length of the binding is double the slit length + 4 cm, width - 5 cm. Press the binding in half lengthwise, right side out. Mark the slit line on the back, cut it. Lay the back flat along the slit line, place the binding right side down, aligning the raw edges, and stitch. The seam allowance along the slit length is 0.5 – 0.7 cm, decreasing to 0.2 cm at the bottom of the slit. Fold the binding to the wrong side, enclosing the seam, and topstitch into the stitching line.
- Along the upper edge of the front, stitch with a loosely tensioned thread and gather.
- Stitch the right side seam. Press allowances towards the back and overcast. Overcast the raw edges of the left side seam. Stitch the left side seam from the armhole to the mark, press allowances open.
- Cut a bias binding from the main fabric, 4 cm wide and equal to the armhole length. Press the binding in half lengthwise, right side out, align with the armhole edge and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold.
- Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the upper and side edges. Clip allowances. Turn the collar stand right side out and press, press the lower raw edges inwards. Stitch the upper edges of the back and front to the lower collar stand according to the markings. Topstitch the upper collar stand to the edge of the lower collar stand. Press the pieces.
- Fold the waistband piece in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch the short sides. Trim allowances at corners, turn the waistband right side out. Along the lower edge of the garment, stitch with a loosely tensioned thread and gather. Stitch the outer part of the waistband to the lower edge of the top. Press allowances towards the waistband. Press the raw edge of the inner waistband to the wrong side and topstitch into the stitching line of the upper waistband.
- Sew buttons on the collar stand and waistband.
