Sleeveless Yoked Button-Front Paneled Dress
A women's sleeveless midi dress with a front yoke, princess seams in the bodice, a separate waistband, a flared skirt with large pockets topstitched onto the front, five buttons down the front skirt seam and an invisible zip at the centre back.
When To Wear
- In summer for daytime wear, on its own or with a cardigan.
- At work or in town in warm weather with flat shoes or sandals.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice with a waistband and a flared skirt.
Length: Midi, below the knee.
Neckline: Round neckline finished with interfaced front and back facings.
Sleeves: Sleeveless; armholes finished with a 4 cm bias binding turned to the inside and topstitched.
Front: Yoke above the bodice; bodice with princess seams, bust darts and a centre front seam; skirt with a centre front seam carrying five buttons sewn on at the markings.
Pockets: Pockets topstitched onto the front skirt, with curved openings bound with bias binding; their upper and side edges are caught into the waist and side seams.
Back: Bodice in four panels with princess seams, waistband in two pieces and a two-piece skirt; invisible zip in the centre back seam.
Waist: Separate waistband between bodice and skirt, front in one piece.
Finishing: Seams overlocked; hem turned up 1.5 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Princess seams and a yoke, an invisible zip, bias-bound pocket openings and armholes, and matching seams at the waistband.
Fabric Recommendations
Dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (neckline facings, pocket opening allowances)
- Invisible zip
- 5 buttons
- Bias binding, 4 cm wide, for the pocket openings and armholes (or cut from the main fabric)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper center back – 2 pieces
- Upper side back – 2 pieces
- Back waistband – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 1 piece
- Upper center front – 2 pieces
- Upper side front – 2 pieces
- Front waistband – 1 piece
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center and serge. Attach the back waistband to the upper, press seam allowances towards the waistband and serge. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
- Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open, pressing the zipper opening. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Stitch the bust darts on the front, press the dart excess upwards. Stitch the front princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center and serge. Stitch the center seam of the upper front, press seam allowances to the left side and serge.
- Attach the yoke to the front, press seam allowances upwards and serge. Attach the front waistband to the upper, press seam allowances towards the waistband and serge.
- Interface the pocket opening allowance with fusible interfacing. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the pocket opening length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the pocket opening edge right sides together and stitch. Clip the seam allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam. Serge the middle and lower sides of the pocket, press to the wrong side. Place the pocket according to the markings on the front skirt and topstitch. Secure the upper and side edges of the pocket to the skirt edges.
- Stitch the center seam of the front lower, press seam allowances to the left side and serge. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press seam allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place the facing with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn pieces right side out, straighten, and press. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams and zipper tape.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Clip the seam allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew buttons on the skirt according to markings.
