Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Contrasting fabric for trim. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: a concealed zipper; fusible interfacing; 3 hooks and eyes. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 3.0 cm; allowance along the slit of the lower back part – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part - 2 pieces
  • Side upper front part – 2 pieces
  • Central upper front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Lower front part - 1 piece on fold
  • Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing - 1 piece
• From main fabric 1:
  • Belt - 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing - 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the facing pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the princess seams of the upper front parts, press seam allowances towards the center and overcast. Stitch the darts on the lower back parts, press dart depths towards the center.
3. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances upwards and overcast. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
4. Overcast the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the slit mark. Press seam allowances open, pressing the slit. Insert the zipper. Topstitch the slit 0.1 cm from the fold.
5. Stitch the shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
6. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front neckline facing, press seam allowances open. Overcast the outer edge. Place the facing with the garment right sides together and stitch the front neckline and back neckline. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, press. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams and center back seam.
7. Cut (or use ready-made) bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip seam allowances, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
8. Stitch the side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
9. Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
10. Form and secure the pleats on the belt. Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along three sides, inserting hooks and eyes into the center edges and leaving an opening on the long side for turning. Turn the belt right side out, straighten, press. Close the technical opening.