Sheath Dress with Cropped Bolero Jacket

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; concealed zipper; 8 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for dress bottom and sleeve bottom – 3 cm; slit allowance – 6 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part - 2 pieces
  • Side back part - 2 pieces
  • Center front part - 1 piece
  • Side front part - 2 pieces
  • Bolero – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Bolero – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Interface the facing pieces, bolero neckline edges, and the diagonal and bottom edges of the bolero with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the princess seams of the back and front, press allowances towards the center and overcast.
3. On the left back piece, cut 5 cm along the vertical edge of the vent. On both back pieces, interface the vent from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (the fold line of the vent). Press the left piece along the vent fold line, on the right piece, press only the allowance of the right side of the vent (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the top edge of the vent. Overcast the center back edge separately on each piece. Overcast the vent allowances. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the corner of the vent. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right piece. Press the center seam allowances open, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the concealed zipper.
4. Stitch the darts on the bolero pieces from the main and lining fabric, press the dart depths downwards. Place the main garment with the lining right sides together and stitch the neckline edge, center, and bottom edges. Clip the allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn the piece right side out, straighten, and press. Secure the lining to the main garment along the edges.
5. Overcast the outer edge of the front facing. Place the front facing with the main garment right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Fold the facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press. Place the bolero on the front and secure along the edges. Then treat as one piece.
6. Overcast the outer edge of the back neckline facing. Place the neckline facing on the back and stitch the neckline edge exactly up to the marked shoulder seam line. Clip the allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side, and press.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams, inserting the front between the back and the facing, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Attach the facing to the zipper tape.
8. Stitch the side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
9. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press allowances and overcast.
10. Overcast the hem allowance of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side, and hem with blind stitches.
11. Sew buttons onto the bolero, securing it to the front.