Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: low-stretch knit fabric made of natural or blended fibers. Low-stretch knit fabric in contrasting or analogous colors for trim. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interlining, zipper, 3 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; allowance along the bias cut of the left front piece – 2 cm; allowance for the top edge of the pocket – 2 cm; allowance for the hem of the garment and sleeve hem – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Right front - 1 piece
- Left front - 1 piece
- Front yoke - 1 piece
- Front neckline facing — 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- From trim fabric:
- Insert - 1 piece
- Pocket — 1 piece
- From fusible interlining:
- Front neckline facing — 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! ATTENTION! MARKINGS ON PATTERNS ARE ON THE RIGHT SIDE!
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker.
- Interface the facing pieces with fusible interlining. Interface the allowance of the top edge of the pocket.
- Stitch the waist darts on the back, press the fullness towards the center.
- Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press the allowances open, pressing the slit for the zipper. Insert the zipper.
- Serge the top edge of the pocket, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Serge the side and bottom edges of the pocket, press to the wrong side. Place the pocket according to the markings on the right front and topstitch.
- Serge the bottom edge of the insert, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Clip the seam allowance of the left front at the mark, serge the bias cut from the mark to the bottom, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Place the left front on the insert, secure along the edges and treat as one piece.
- Attach the insert to the right front, press the allowances and serge. Form a pleat on the right front according to the markings and topstitch it on the right side into the seam of attaching the insert.
- Attach the yoke to the front, press the allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press the allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, serge the outer edge. Place the facing with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip the allowances at the curves, turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten and press. Secure the facing to the shoulder seams and the zipper tape.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press the allowances and serge. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Press the allowances and serge.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew buttons onto the front pleat, securing it.
