Stand Collar Coat with Buckled Tabs

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:

• Zipper Placket – 2 pieces
• Stand Collar – 2 pieces
• Center Back – 2 pieces
• Side Back – 2 pieces
• Side Front – 2 pieces
• Center Front – 2 pieces
• Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
• Patch Pocket – 2 pieces
• Upper Pocket Facing – 2 pieces
• Upper Pocket Big Lining – 1 piece
• Off-Set Welt – 4 pieces
• Belt Loop – 1 piece
• Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
• Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
• Waistband – 4 pieces
• Collar Strap – 1 piece
• Buckle Strap – 6 pieces
• Sleeve Strap – 2 pieces
• Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece

From lining fabric:

• Upper Pocket Small Lining – 1 piece
• Center Back – 2 pieces
• Side Back – 2 pieces
• Center Front – 2 pieces
• Side Front – 2 pieces
• Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
• Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
• Patch Pocket Lining – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Center Front, Stand Collar, Off-Set Welt, Zipper Placket; stay tape for the chest pocket opening.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse fusible interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Center Front, Stand Collar, Off-Set Welt and Zipper Placket.
2. Mark and stitch the darts on the front. Cut away the dart depth and press the dart open. Topstitch along the dart 0.5 cm from it. Stitch the front princess seams joining the Center Front and Side Front and press them to one side. Topstitch along the princess seam 0.5 cm from it.
3. Mark and stitch the darts on the back. Press the darts towards the centre and topstitch along the dart 0.5 cm from it. Stitch the back princess seams joining the Center Back and Side Back and press them to one side. Topstitch along the princess seam 0.5 cm from it. Stitch the centre back seam and press it to one side. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the centre back seam.
4. Mark the position of the chest pocket on the front. Reinforce the pocket opening with fusible stay tape. Check the pocket position on the front. Fold the Upper Pocket Facing pieces in half, wrong sides together, and press. On each facing, mark a guideline parallel to the fold for attaching it. Mark guidelines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the facings. Stitch the facings to the front, ending the stitching exactly at the cross marks of the pocket. Check from the wrong side that the stitching lines are parallel. Cut the pocket opening, making diagonal cuts into the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end. Turn the facings through the opening to the wrong side, ease out the edges and adjust the ends of the facings. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch across the base of the triangles. Place the zip under the edges of the opening so that the teeth show. Stitch in the zip and stitch the Upper Pocket Small Lining and Upper Pocket Big Lining to the seam allowances of the facings. Stitch the pocket linings together and overlock.
5. Place the Off-Set Welt pieces together in pairs, right sides together, and stitch along the upper edge. Turn and press the welt. Mark the welt position on the Patch Pocket. On the welt, mark the line for stitching it to the pocket, checking the width. Place the welt on the Patch Pocket, matching the marked lines, and baste. Place the Patch Pocket and the Patch Pocket Lining right sides together and stitch along the marked upper and lower lines, catching the welt. Check from the wrong side that the stitching lines are parallel and the distance between them equals the finished width of the welt. Remove the basting. Cut the pocket opening through all layers, making diagonal cuts into the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end (take care not to cut the welt). Turn the welt and the Patch Pocket Lining through the opening to the wrong side and ease out the edges. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch across the base of the triangles. Press the edges of the upper and lower parts of the pocket under along the pattern lines. Mark the pocket position on the front and topstitch the pocket on.
6. Fold the Collar Strap in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch along three sides, leaving a small opening for turning. Turn the strap right side out and press. Topstitch around the strap 0.2 cm from the edge. Put the buckle on the strap. Fold the end of the strap to the wrong side to form a loop and stitch it down. Mark and set the eyelets in the strap. Make the Buckle Strap, Sleeve Strap and Waistband pieces in the same way.
7. Fold the Belt Loop strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, match the edges and stitch 0.5–0.7 cm from the edges. Turn it right side out and press it either with the seam on the fold or with a 0.1–0.2 cm edge rolled to the inside. Cut the strip into belt loops as marked.
8. Place the Waistband straps with eyelets at the notches on the Side Front and stitch them to the seam allowance. Place the Buckle Strap pieces with buckles on the Center Front and on the front of the sleeve, stitch them on, turn them over and topstitch. Place the Sleeve Strap at the elbow edge of the sleeve and stitch it to the seam allowance.
9. Stitch the shoulder and side seams and press them open. Sew the Stand Collar into the neckline of the fronts and back. Fold each Zipper Placket in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch across the upper and lower ends. Trim the corners and turn the placket right side out. Press the placket. Stitch the zip to the plackets (note: the right placket is the outer one, the left placket is the inner one).
10. Stitch the shoulder seams joining the Center Front Facing and Back Neckline Facing and press them open. Stitch the seams of the lining pieces and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right lining sleeve. Press the lining seam allowances. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the facings and to the Stand Collar.
11. Place the prepared plackets on the fronts. Check the order of the layers: on the right front – front, placket, zip; on the left front – front, zip, placket (see the technical drawing). Stitch the plackets to the fronts. Place the facing on the front and stitch the lower corner, the front edge and the upper edge of the collar in one seam. Trim the corners, turn right side out and press. Topstitch the belt loops onto the Stand Collar at the markings. Remove the pins. Press open the seam allowances of the collar seams and tack them together close to the seams.
12. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve and press it open. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve and press it open. Press up the sleeve hem.
13. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
14. Mark and press up the hem of the coat. Stitch the lining to the hems of the sleeves and the coat. Tack the lining to the coat at the seams at waist level. Turn the coat right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.