Double-breasted Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL YOKE – 1 QTY
2. BACK PANEL CENTER – 2 QTY
3. BACK PANEL SIDE – 2 QTY
4. LOWER COLLAR - 1 QTY
5. UPPER COLLAR – 1 QTY
6. FLAP – 4 QTY
7. FRONT PANEL SIDE – 2 QTY
8. FRONT PANEL YOKE – 2 QTY
9. FRONT PANEL CENTER – 2 QTY
10. FACING – 2 QTY
11. LOWER SLEEVE – 2 QTY
12. UPPER SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• From lining fabric:
1. BACK PANEL YOKE – 1 QTY
2. BACK PANEL CENTER - 2 QTY
3. BACK PANEL SIDE – 2 QTY
4. FRONT PANEL SIDE – 2 QTY
5. FRONT PANEL YOKE – 2 QTY
6. FRONT PANEL CENTER – 2 QTY
7. LOWER SLEEVE – 2 QTY
8. UPPER SLEEVE – 2 QTY
9. POCKET LINING – 4 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, FRONT PANEL CENTER, LOWER COLLAR, FRONT PANEL YOKE, FLAP.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the FACING, FRONT PANEL CENTER, LOWER COLLAR, FRONT PANEL YOKE, and FLAP.
2. Place the upper COLLAR and lower COLLAR right sides together and stitch the lower COLLAR to the upper COLLAR. Trim, turn out the COLLAR corners. Press the COLLAR.
3. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Attach the yoke to the FRONT PANEL and press open the seam. Attach the yoke to the BACK PANEL and press open the seam.
4. Place the FLAP pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners, turn the FLAP right side out and press.
5. Cut out the FACINGS for the side welt pocket. Mark and reinforce the pocket opening with a GRAIN LINE strip. Verify pocket placement. Fold the pocket FACINGS lengthwise with wrong sides together and press. Mark a guideline on the pocket FACING parallel to the FACING fold for attachment. Mark a guideline on the FLAP for attachment parallel to the upper edge of the FLAP, measuring the FLAP width along its entire length. Mark guidelines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the FLAP and pocket FACINGS. Attach the pocket LINING to the FLAP. Attach the FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL. The ends of the stitching should finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the accuracy of FACING attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the pocket. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the FACINGS through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the FACINGS so that the pressed folds of the FACINGS meet flush. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the FLAP into the pocket and attach it to the upper pocket FACING. Attach the lower pocket LINING to the seam of the lower FACING attachment; trim and stitch the pocket LINING.
6. Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin and stitch along the marked line. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side upwards to the NOTCH, which defines the end of the COLLAR insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the front edge FACING: in the fastener area – to the FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Remove pins. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams and press.
7. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat. Press open the shoulder and side seams.
8. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE. Press the hem of the SLEEVE.
9. Insert the lower COLLAR into the neckline of the coat. Insert the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE heads.
10. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the right front SLEEVE seam. Press the LINING SEAM ALLOWANCES. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the FACINGS and the upper COLLAR. Press open the COLLAR insertion SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure close to the seams.
11. Mark and press the hem of the coat. Finish the hem of the SLEEVE and coat with LINING. Secure the LINING to the garment at the waist seams. Turn the coat right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
12. Mark and overcast the buttonholes on the FRONT PANELS. Sew on the buttons. Mark and sew on the hidden button.