Coat with Wide Lapels

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• Belt loop - 1 QTY
• Center BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• Lower COLLAR – 1 QTY
• Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
• Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• Center FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY
• FACING – 2 QTY
• Welt pocket flap – 2 QTY
• Pocket bag – 4 QTY
• Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, welt pocket flap, pocket GRAIN LINE, FRONT PANEL, hem allowance of SLEEVE and coat.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse the FACING, welt pocket flap, pocket GRAIN LINE, SLEEVE hem, and coat hem with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
2. Serge: center back seam, side seams of side FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL, princess seams of center FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL, shoulder seams of FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL.
3. Stitch the princess seams on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Press open the princess seams on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL.
4. Fold the welt pocket flap right sides together in the middle and press. Stitch the corners of the welt pocket flap, trim excess fabric at the corners, and turn the welt pocket flap right side out. Press the finished welt pocket flap.
5. Fold the upper COLLAR with the lower COLLAR and stitch. Turn the COLLAR right side out, straighten the seams, and press.
6. On the welt pocket flap, mark the stitching line to the FRONT PANEL, measuring the width. On the FRONT PANEL, mark the pocket placement. Place the welt pocket flap on the right side of one pocket LINING piece, right side up, with the finished edge down, aligning the edges and extending the LINING edges beyond the welt pocket flap by an equal amount. Place the welt pocket flap on the FRONT PANEL and align the marked lines on the FRONT PANEL and the welt pocket flap. Stitch the welt pocket flap to the FRONT PANEL. The welt pocket flap is between the FRONT PANEL and the pocket LINING. Fold the stitching line of the welt pocket flap and LINING towards the welt pocket flap. Place the second LINING piece on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, butt it against the welt pocket flap stitching line, baste, and stitch at a distance of 0.8-1 cm from the welt pocket flap stitching line. Check the correctness of the welt pocket flap and pocket bag stitching from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Remove temporary basting threads. Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Through the resulting opening, turn the welt pocket flap and pocket bag to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch and serge the pocket bag. Baste the welt pocket flap to the FRONT PANEL and press. Topstitch the ends of the welt pocket flap. Remove temporary basting threads.
7. Press the lower vent allowance by 1 cm and topstitch to the center BACK PANEL. Stitch the center back seam. Press open the center back seam, stopping 5 cm before the vent. Press the vent towards the center back. Topstitch the center back seam at the upper end of the vent diagonally according to the marking, catching the vent allowance.
8. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the coat.
9. Serge the inner edge of the FACING. Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side, simultaneously attaching the COLLAR. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge: in the fastener area – to the FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL front edge. The stitching is placed at a distance of 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams. Serge the COLLAR attachment seam and topstitch the neckline to the main piece.
10. Stitch the elbow seam of the SLEEVE and the vent corners on the lower and upper SLEEVE. Press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE, make a NOTCH, and press the vent.
11. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE.
12. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES and serge the SLEEVE attachment seam.
13. Serge and press the hem of the coat and SLEEVES. Hem the SLEEVE and garment.
14. On the right FRONT PANEL, serge the buttonhole, and on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on the button. Sew a button on the SLEEVE vent.
15. Fold the belt loop lengthwise in the middle, right sides together, align the edges, and stitch at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn right side out, straighten the seam, placing it on the fold, or create a 0.1-0.2 cm wide edge on the inside and press. Cut the belt loops to size and topstitch the belt loops according to the marking on the side seam.