CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- 2. Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- 3. Back Yoke – 1 QTY
- 4. Back Waistband – 2 QTY
- 5. Front Yoke – 2 QTY
- 6. Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- 7. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- 8. Front Waistband – 2 QTY
- 9. Lower Waistband – 2 QTY
- 10. Collar Stand – 2 QTY
- 11. FACING – 2 QTY
- 12. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
- 13. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
- 14. SLEEVE CUFF – 4 QTY
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, Collar Stand; CUFF, Back Waistband, and Lower Waistband.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the FACING, Collar Stand, CUFF, Back Waistband, and Lower Waistband.
- Place Collar Stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour up to the NOTCH. Trim and turn out the Collar Stand corners. Press the Collar Stand.
- Mark and create pleats on the center FRONT PANEL. Stitch the pleats on the center FRONT PANEL.
- Stitch the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL princess seams. Overlock the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL princess seams. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL princess seams.
- Attach the yoke to the FRONT PANEL and overlock the attachment seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the yoke attachment seam.
- Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the seam and press it towards the right BACK PANEL. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Attach the back yoke to the BACK PANEL and overlock the attachment seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the yoke attachment seam.
- Attach the waistband to the FRONT PANEL and press the attachment seam towards the waistband. Attach the waistband to the BACK PANEL and press the attachment seam towards the waistband.
- Stitch and press open the side seams of the lower FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL waistbands. Overlock the upper edge of the waistband.
- Place FRONT PANELs right sides together and align the edges, matching the yokes, measure the length of the front edges. Attach the ZIPPER to the edge of the front opening. Fold under the edges of the front opening in the ZIPPER area and press.
- Overlock the outer edge of the FACING. Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, face down, and stitch along the front edge line. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams, and press.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Overlock the side and shoulder seams. Press the side and shoulder seams towards the BACK PANEL.
- Insert the upper Collar Stand into the neckline, fold under the raw edge of the lower Collar Stand, and topstitch into the seam of the upper Collar Stand. Topstitch along the Collar Stand. Secure the FACINGs to the shoulder seams with a 1 cm tack.
- Attach the center edge of the lower waistband to the outer edge of the FACING at the bottom. Press the attachment seam and turn it to the right side. Stitch the lower corner of the front opening and the bottom of the garment with the waistband. Turn out and trim the lower corners of the front openings. Press the waistband, straightening the piping from the upper waistband, and topstitch the upper overlocked edge into the waistband attachment seam. Topstitch along the front opening line 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Overlock the elbow edge of the SLEEVE. Stitch the elbow seam of the SLEEVE up to the NOTCH for the slit. Press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE and topstitch the slit allowances 0.5 cm onto the SLEEVE. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the elbow seam. Stitch and overlock the front seam of the SLEEVE.
- Place CUFFs right sides together and stitch along the outer contour.
- Attach the upper CUFF to the lower edge of the SLEEVE. Fold under the upper edge of the lower CUFF by 1 cm and topstitch into the attachment seam of the upper CUFF. Topstitch along the CUFF contour.
- Set the SLEEVES into the armhole, matching NOTCHES.
- Mark and attach snaps to the Collar Stand and SLEEVE CUFF.
- Tip: If desired, you can topstitch the pleats on the center FRONT PANEL with a rectangular topstitch, as shown in the sketch.
