CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. BACK PANEL center bottom FACING - 1 QTY
- 2. BACK PANEL SIDE PANEL bottom FACING - 2 QTY
- 3. FRONT PANEL bottom FACING - 2 QTY
- 4. Patch pocket – 2 QTY
- 5. Yoke – 2 QTY
- 6. BACK PANEL center part - 2 QTY
- 7. BACK PANEL SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
- 8. Lower COLLAR – 1 QTY
- 9. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
- 10. FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
- 11. FRONT PANEL center upper part – 2 QTY
- 12. FRONT PANEL center lower part – 2 QTY
- 13. Underlap – 2 QTY
- 14. Back neckline FACING – 1 QTY
- 15. Yoke pocket FACING – 2 QTY
- 16. Patch pocket FACING – 2 QTY
- 17. SLEEVE – 2 QTY
- 18. CUFF – 4 QTY
- From LINING fabric:
- 1. BACK PANEL center part - 2 QTY
- 2. BACK PANEL SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
- 3. FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
- 4. FRONT PANEL center upper part – 2 QTY
- 5. FRONT PANEL center lower part – 2 QTY
- 6. SLEEVE – 2 QTY
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: underlap, pocket FACINGS, back neckline FACING, front, back, and SIDE PANEL bottom FACINGS.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the underlaps, pocket FACINGS, back neckline FACING, and the bottom FACINGS of the front, back, and SIDE PANELs.
- Mark darts on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch and press BACK PANEL darts towards the center. Stitch FRONT PANEL darts and trim the dart depth. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the darts.
- Stitch the upper and lower parts of the FRONT PANEL. Press SEAM ALLOWANCE towards the upper part. Attach the FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL to the center FRONT PANEL and press the seam open.
- Fold the yoke pocket FACING with the yoke right sides together and stitch along the marked lines. Check the correctness of the FACING attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel and the distance between them equal to twice the finished width of the FACINGS). Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the pocket FACING through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Topstitch around the perimeter of the pocket opening. Lay the yoke wrong side onto the right side of the FRONT PANEL and topstitch along the outer contour.
- The processing of the welt pocket on the patch pocket is similar. Lay the patch pocket wrong side onto the right side of the lower FRONT PANEL and topstitch along three sides.
- Stitch and press the center BACK PANEL seam. Stitch and press the BACK PANEL princess seams. Topstitch along the seams. Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams.
- Attach the back neckline FACING to the underlaps. Insert the upper COLLAR into the jacket neckline, and the lower COLLAR into the FACING neckline.
- Place the underlap with the COLLAR on the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, wrong side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge and COLLAR. Press the COLLAR insertion SEAM ALLOWANCES open and secure close to the seams.
- Fold CUFF pieces, wrong sides together, and topstitch along three sides. Fold the CUFF into a ring along the marked line and secure. Attach the CUFF to the SLEEVE, press the seam towards the SLEEVE. Topstitch along the CUFF attachment seam. Insert SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES.
- Stitch together the bottom FACING pieces of the front, back, and SIDE PANELs. Press seams open. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch darts, seams, and insert SLEEVES. Press LINING SEAM ALLOWANCES. Attach the bottom FACING to the LINING. Press the seam towards the LINING. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the underlaps and the neckline FACING. Turn the jacket right side out.
- Align the bottom edges of the jacket and FACINGS and topstitch. Fold under the bottom SEAM ALLOWANCE of the SLEEVE LINING and secure to the CUFF.
- On the right FRONT PANEL, mark and overcast buttonholes, and on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons. Sew buttons to the SLEEVE CUFF.
