Zip Detail Trench Coat with Storm Flaps

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. Central upper BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
2. Side upper BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
3. Lower COLLAR – 1 QTY
4. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
5. Side upper FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
6. Central upper FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
7. FACING – 2 QTY
8. Yoke – 4 QTY
9. Belt – 1 QTY
10. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
11. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
12. Central lower BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
13. Side lower BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
14. Side lower FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
15. Central lower FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
16. Large pocket LINING – 2 QTY
17. Small pocket LINING – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. Central BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
2. Side BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
3. Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
4. Central FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
5. Pocket LINING – 2 QTY
6. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
7. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, central upper FRONT PANEL, central lower FRONT PANEL, vent section, lower COLLAR, GRAIN LINE stay.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the FACING, central upper FRONT PANEL, central lower FRONT PANEL, vent section, and lower COLLAR.
2. Place the upper COLLAR and lower COLLAR right sides together and stitch the lower COLLAR to the upper COLLAR. Trim, turn out the COLLAR corners. Press the COLLAR.
3. Stitch the central upper FRONT PANEL to the central lower FRONT PANEL. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Stitch the side upper FRONT PANEL to the side lower FRONT PANEL. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
4. Serge the relief SEAM ALLOWANCES from bottom to waist. Stitch and press open the FRONT PANEL reliefs.
5. Mark the position of the lower pocket on the FRONT PANEL. Reinforce the pocket opening with a GRAIN LINE stay. Confirm the position of the lower pocket on the FRONT PANEL. Cut the pocket FACINGS. Fold the pocket FACINGS in half with wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket FACINGS parallel to the FACING fold for stitching. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening for stitching the pocket FACINGS. Stitch the FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL. End the stitching at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the accuracy of the FACING stitching from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the pocket. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the FACINGS through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, and adjust the ends of the FACINGS. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Place the ZIPPER under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible. Stitch the ZIPPER and stitch the pocket LINING to the FACING SEAM ALLOWANCES. Stitch the pocket LINING and serge.
6. Cut the pocket underlay from the main fabric. Mark the position of the upper false pocket on the FRONT PANEL. Reinforce the pocket opening with a GRAIN LINE stay. The processing of the upper pocket is similar to the processing of the lower pocket. After stitching the ZIPPER, stitch the underlay to the FACING SEAM ALLOWANCES.
7. Serge the inner edge of the FACING. Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the marked line. Stitching is performed from the FRONT PANEL side up to the NOTCH, which defines the end of the COLLAR attachment. Mark and press the hem allowance to the wrong side of the coat. Stitch the lower edges of the FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Understitch the front edge SEAM ALLOWANCE: in the fastener area – to the FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL front edge. Press the front edges and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Remove temporary basting threads.
8. Place the yoke pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour, leaving the shoulder, side, and armhole edges free. Turn the yoke to the right side and press. Baste the yoke to the FRONT PANEL. Topstitch the yoke to the FRONT PANEL.
9. Stitch the side upper BACK PANEL to the side lower BACK PANEL and the central upper BACK PANEL to the central lower BACK PANEL. Press the stitching SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
10. Serge the relief SEAM ALLOWANCES from bottom to waist. Stitch and press open the BACK PANEL reliefs.
11. Serge the vent SEAM ALLOWANCES. Stitch the center back SEAM ALLOWANCE up to the vent. Press the lower vent SEAM ALLOWANCE by 1 cm. Press the center back seam and vent towards the center back. Topstitch the center back seam at the upper end of the vent diagonally according to the marking, catching the vent allowance.
12. Serge the side SEAM ALLOWANCES from bottom to waist. Stitch the shoulder and side SEAM ALLOWANCES of the coat. Press the shoulder and side SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Remove temporary basting threads connecting the yoke to the FRONT PANEL.
13. Stitch the elbow seam of the SLEEVE and the vent corners on the lower and upper SLEEVE. Press the elbow seam of the SLEEVE, make a NOTCH, and press the vent.
14. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE. Press the bottom of the SLEEVE.
15. Stitch the lower COLLAR into the neckline of the coat.
16. Stitch the SLEEVES into the armhole according to the NOTCHES. Stitch