Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: raincoat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Also needed: fusible interfacing; 4 buttons; lining fabric; shoulder pads.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment 3.5 cm, for pocket bag edges and welt pocket flap — 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve facing – 2 pieces
- Welt pocket flap – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece
- Sleeve lining – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: front facing, welt pocket flap, back neckline facing, upper collar.
Attention: Front and back pieces from lining are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Attention: Side seams of the garment are overlocked from the waist to the bottom.
- Fuse interfacing to the front facing, back neckline facing, upper collar, armhole edge on the front and back. Fuse the pocket placement area on the front. Along the lapel fold line on the front, apply a 1 cm wide grainline stay (from fusible interfacing).
- Stitch and press back darts towards the center. Stitch and press front darts.
- Mark the pocket placement. Press the welt pocket flap in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt pocket flap. Attach the welt pocket flap to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Attach the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitches should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the welt pocket flap and large pocket bag through the opening to the wrong side. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- Stitch and press open shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Press seams open.
- Fold collar pieces right sides together. Stitch the right end of the collar from notch “0” to the upper edge. Trim the seam. Clip the allowance at the mark near the beginning of the seam. Turn the collar right side out and press. Attach the upper collar to the neckline of the back and front.
- Fold the right front facing with the front right sides together and stitch the right front edge and lapel notch. Stitch the seam allowance of the front edge from the bottom to the notch onto the front facing. The stitch should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Attach the lower edge of the front facing to the front strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the front facing. Trim the seam of the lower front corner. Clip the allowance at the neckline near the lapel notch mark. Turn the front edge right side out, straighten the seams. Attach the lower collar to the neckline of the facing and front facing. Press the seam open.
- Fold the left front facing with the front right sides together and stitch the left front edge and collar. Stitch the seam allowance of the front edge from the bottom to the notch onto the front facing. The stitch should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Attach the lower edge of the front facing to the front strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the front facing. Trim the seam of the lower front corner. Press the collar and front edges. Stitch a securing stitch along the collar attachment seam to the neckline. Topstitch 1 cm from the edge of the front edge, lapel, and collar.
- Form a pleat on the lower sleeve part. Stitch the upper and lower parts. Stitch the sleeve seam. Stitch the sleeve facing into a loop. Finish the sleeve hem with the sleeve facing. Turn the sleeve facing to the wrong side and press the sleeve hem. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches. Attach shoulder pads.
- Overlock and press up the hem allowance for the bottom of the garment.
- On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves. Double fold the bottom of the lining by 1 cm and topstitch.
- Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Attach the lining to the upper edge of the sleeve facing.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch, leaving an opening. Turn the belt right side out through the opening and sew it closed. Topstitch along the contour 0.5 cm from the edge.
- On the right front, make buttonholes. Sew on buttons accordingly.
