Double-Breasted Belted Trench Coat
Introducing a classic double-breasted trench coat sewing pattern, featuring a timeless design with intricate details and a flattering belted silhouette.
When To Wear
- Everyday Elegance: Perfect for sophisticated daily wear, offering style and protection from the elements.
- Transitional Seasons: An ideal outerwear choice for spring and autumn, providing warmth without bulk.
- Travel & Commuting: a versatile and polished layer that adds refinement to any outfit, suitable for professional or casual settings.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored a-line silhouette, cinched at the waist with a wide belt to enhance the figure.
Neckline / Collar: a classic trench collar with notched lapels, designed to be worn open or fully buttoned for maximum coverage.
Closure: Double-breasted front featuring 12 button closures, creating a secure and iconic look.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves finished with adjustable tab details at the cuffs.
Pockets: Functional front welt pockets adorned with a pointed flap for a refined detail.
Back: Features a structured back yoke and a distinct storm flap for added protection and classic trench styling.
Waist: Defined by a wide, adjustable belt with a buckle closure, threaded through belt loops.
Shoulder Details: Epaulets on each shoulder, secured with a button.
Length: An elegant above-knee length, providing practical coverage and a versatile profile.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. This pattern requires confident sewing skills including precise collar and lapel construction, setting in two-piece sleeves, creating welt pockets with flaps, and working with lining and multiple small details.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose durable outerwear fabrics that offer structure and drape, suitable for trench coats:
- Raincoat fabric
- Gabardine
- Twill
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 12 buttons
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve head rolls
- 1 buckle
- Eyelets
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back center – 1 piece
- Back side – 2 pieces
- Lower collar – 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Front side – 2 pieces
- Front center – 2 pieces
- Yoke – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Belt loop – 1 piece
- Welt – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back center – 1 piece
- Back side - 2 pieces
- Front side – 2 pieces
- Front center – 2 pieces
- Pocket lining – 4 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: facing, front center, lower collar, welt, flap.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the facing, center front, lower collar, welt, and flap.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together and stitch the lower collar to the upper collar. Trim, turn out the collar corners. Press the collar.
- Place the welt pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Trim the seam allowances of the rounded corners and turn out. Press the welt, straightening the edge. Stitch the pocket lining to the welt.
- On the right side of the side front, place the pocket lining, and on the center front, place the pocket lining with the attached welt, according to the notches, right side down. Stitch the pocket lining to the pocket opening seam allowance. Fold back the side front seam and topstitch onto the pocket lining.
- Stitch the front princess seams and the pocket lining. Clip the seam allowance at the beginning and end of the pocket opening, press open the princess seam seam allowances, pressing the pocket. Topstitch the short sides of the welt to the side front.
- Stitch the back princess seams. Press the back princess seams towards the center back.
- Place the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the marked line. Stitching is done from the front side upwards to the notch, which indicates the end of the collar attachment. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge stitching: in the fastener area – to the facing, in the lapel area – to the front front edge. The stitching is placed 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams and press.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat. Press open the shoulder and side seams.
- Fold the belt loop in half lengthwise, right side in, align the edges and stitch at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn out, straighten the seam, placing it on the fold or forming a 0.1-0.2 cm wide edge on the inside, and press. Cut the belt loop according to the markings. Mark and topstitch the belt loop along the side seams at the waistline.
- Place the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn the flap to the right side and press. Attach the flap to the notches on the yoke and stitch. Place the yoke pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour, leaving the neckline edge free. Turn the yoke to the right side and press. Mark and attach snaps on the flap and on the front. Baste the yoke to the front and back at the neckline.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Press the sleeve hem.
- Attach the lower collar to the coat neckline. Remove temporary basting threads connecting the yoke to the front and back neckline.
- Attach the sleeves to the armhole according to the notches. Attach shoulder pads and sleeve heads. Mark and attach snaps on the back of the coat.
- On the cut pieces of lining fabric, stitch the seams and attach the sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press the lining seam allowances. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the facings and the upper collar. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
- Mark and press the coat hem. Finish the sleeve and coat hem with lining. Secure the lining to the garment at the waist seams. Turn the coat to the right side through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right side in. Stitch the belt on three sides, leaving a small opening for turning. Turn the belt out and press. Topstitch along the contour of the belt at a distance of 0.5 from the edge. Put the buckle on the belt. Fold the end of the belt to the wrong side, forming a loop, and topstitch. Mark and attach eyelets on the belt. Thread the belt through the belt loops.
- Mark and attach snaps along the edge of the front.
