Double-Breasted Belted Trench Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL center – 1 QTY
2. BACK PANEL side – 2 QTY
3. Lower COLLAR – 1 QTY
4. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
5. FRONT PANEL side – 2 QTY
6. FRONT PANEL center – 2 QTY
7. Yoke – 2 QTY
8. Belt – 1 QTY
9. FACING – 2 QTY
10. Upper SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
11. Lower SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
12. Flap – 4 QTY
13. Belt loop – 1 QTY
14. Welt – 4 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. BACK PANEL center – 1 QTY
2. BACK PANEL side - 2 QTY
3. FRONT PANEL side – 2 QTY
4. FRONT PANEL center – 2 QTY
5. Pocket LINING – 4 QTY
6. Upper SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
7. Lower SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, FRONT PANEL center, lower COLLAR, welt, flap.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the FACING, center FRONT PANEL, lower COLLAR, welt, and flap.
2. Place the upper COLLAR and lower COLLAR right sides together and stitch the lower COLLAR to the upper COLLAR. Trim, turn out the COLLAR corners. Press the COLLAR.
3. Place the welt pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the rounded corners and turn out. Press the welt, straightening the edge. Stitch the pocket LINING to the welt.
4. On the right side of the side FRONT PANEL, place the pocket LINING, and on the center FRONT PANEL, place the pocket LINING with the attached welt, according to the NOTCHES, right side down. Stitch the pocket LINING to the pocket opening SEAM ALLOWANCE. Fold back the side FRONT PANEL seam and topstitch onto the pocket LINING.
5. Stitch the FRONT PANEL princess seams and the pocket LINING. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCE at the beginning and end of the pocket opening, press open the princess seam SEAM ALLOWANCES, pressing the pocket. Topstitch the short sides of the welt to the side FRONT PANEL.
6. Stitch the BACK PANEL princess seams. Press the BACK PANEL princess seams towards the center BACK PANEL.
7. Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin and stitch along the marked line. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side upwards to the NOTCH, which indicates the end of the COLLAR attachment. Stitch the lower edges of the FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the front edge stitching: in the fastener area – to the FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL front edge. The stitching is placed 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams and press.
8. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat. Press open the shoulder and side seams.
9. Fold the belt loop in half lengthwise, right side in, align the edges and stitch at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn out, straighten the seam, placing it on the fold or forming a 0.1-0.2 cm wide edge on the inside, and press. Cut the belt loop according to the markings. Mark and topstitch the belt loop along the side seams at the waistline.
10. Place the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners, turn the flap to the right side and press. Attach the flap to the NOTCHES on the yoke and stitch. Place the yoke pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour, leaving the neckline edge free. Turn the yoke to the right side and press. Mark and attach snaps on the flap and on the FRONT PANEL. Baste the yoke to the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL at the neckline.
11. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE. Press the SLEEVE hem.
12. Attach the lower COLLAR to the coat neckline. Remove temporary basting threads connecting the yoke to the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL neckline.
13. Attach the SLEEVES to the armhole according to the NOTCHES. Attach shoulder pads and sleeve heads. Mark and attach snaps on the BACK PANEL of the coat.
14. On the cut pieces of LINING fabric, stitch the seams and attach the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the right front SLEEVE seam. Press the LINING SEAM ALLOWANCES. Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the FACINGS and the upper COLLAR. Press open the COLLAR attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure close to the seams.
15. Mark and press the coat hem. Finish the SLEEVE and coat hem with LINING. Secure the LINING to the garment at the waist seams. Turn the coat to the right side through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
16. Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right side in. Stitch the belt on three sides, leaving a small opening for turning. Turn the belt out and press. Topstitch along the contour of the belt at a distance of 0.5 from the edge. Put the buckle on the belt. Fold the end of the belt to the wrong side, forming a loop, and topstitch. Mark and attach eyelets on the belt. Thread the belt through the belt loops.
17. Mark and attach snaps along the edge of the front.