Empire Waist Coat with Wide Notched Lapels

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. Upper center BACK PANEL – 1 QTY
2. Lower center BACK PANEL – 1 QTY
3. Upper side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
4. Lower side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
5. Lower COLLAR – 1 QTY
6. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
7. Upper side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
8. Lower side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
9. Upper center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
10. Lower center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
11. FACING – 2 QTY
12. FLAP – 4 QTY
13. SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. Center BACK PANEL – 1 QTY
2. Side BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
3. Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
4. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
5. Pocket bag – 4 QTY
6. SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, lower COLLAR, upper center FRONT PANEL, armhole of upper side FRONT PANEL, center upper BACK PANEL, armhole of upper side BACK PANEL, GRAIN LINE for pocket; hem SEAM ALLOWANCES: lower center FRONT PANEL, SLEEVE, lower side BACK PANEL, lower center BACK PANEL.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to FACING, lower COLLAR, upper center FRONT PANEL, lower center FRONT PANEL, armhole of upper side FRONT PANEL, center upper BACK PANEL, armhole of upper side BACK PANEL; hem SEAM ALLOWANCES: lower center FRONT PANEL, SLEEVE, lower side BACK PANEL, lower center BACK PANEL.
2. Place upper COLLAR and lower COLLAR right sides together and stitch the lower COLLAR to the upper COLLAR. Trim, turn out the COLLAR corners.
3. Place the FLAP and underflap right sides together, straighten the edges and stitch. Trim and turn out the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the FLAP corners. Baste and press the FLAP from the underflap side, creating a 0.2-0.1 cm edge on the FLAP side.
4. Stitch the upper center FRONT PANEL to the lower center FRONT PANEL and the upper side FRONT PANEL to the lower side FRONT PANEL. Press the seams downwards and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
5. Stitch the relief seams of the FRONT PANEL and press them towards the center of the FRONT PANEL. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
6. Secure the pocket opening with a GRAIN LINE or baste. Fold the pocket FACING in half wrong sides together and press. Mark a guideline on the pocket FACING parallel to the FACING fold for attachment. Mark a guideline on the FLAP for attachment parallel to the upper edge of the FLAP, measuring the FLAP width along its entire length. Mark guidelines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the FLAP and pocket FACING. Stitch the pocket bag to the FLAP. Stitch the FLAP with the pocket bag to the lower side FRONT PANEL. Stitch the FACING to the lower center FRONT PANEL. The ends of the stitches should finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the FACING and FLAP attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Through the resulting opening, turn the FACING and the FLAP attachment seam to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the end of the FACING so that the pressed fold of the FACING meets the FLAP attachment seam. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag.
7. Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin and stitch along the edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side up to the NOTCH, which determines the end of the COLLAR insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the FACING to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the edge. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge along the seam of the edge.
8. Stitch the upper side BACK PANEL to the lower side BACK PANEL and the upper center BACK PANEL to the lower center BACK PANEL. Press the seams downwards and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
9. Stitch the relief seams of the BACK PANEL, press towards the center of the BACK PANEL and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
10. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat. Press open the shoulder and side seams of the coat.
11. Insert the lower COLLAR into the neckline and stitch the upper COLLAR to the FACINGS.
12. Insert the SLEEVES into the armhole according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
13. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the right SLEEVE seam. Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the FACINGS and the upper COLLAR. Press open the COLLAR insertion SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure close to the seams. Stitch the LINING to the bottom of the coat. Turn the coat right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE and stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
14. On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast buttonholes, and on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons.