CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Upper BACK PANEL – QTY 2
- Central lower BACK PANEL – QTY 2
- Side lower BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- Lower COLLAR - QTY 1
- Upper COLLAR – QTY 1
- Side lower FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- Upper FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- Central lower FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
- FACING – QTY 2
- Upper SLEEVE – QTY 2
- Lower SLEEVE.– QTY 2
- FACING of lower SLEEVE – QTY 2
- FACING of upper SLEEVE – QTY 2
- Pocket – QTY 2
- From LINING fabric:
- Central BACK PANEL – QTY 1
- Side BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- Side FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- Central FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- Upper SLEEVE – QTY 2
- Lower SLEEVE – QTY 2
- Pocket LINING – QTY 2
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, upper FRONT PANEL, central lower FRONT PANEL, lower COLLAR; hem SEAM ALLOWANCES: side lower FRONT PANEL, side lower BACK PANEL, central lower BACK PANEL.
- TIP: If desired, in the upper part of the darts on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL, in the seams of attaching the lower parts of the FRONT PANELs and BACK PANELs, in the front seams of the SLEEVE and the COLLAR lapel, punch holes with a special tool and thread a decorative cord through the holes.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the FACING, upper FRONT PANEL, central lower FRONT PANEL, lower COLLAR; hem SEAM ALLOWANCES: side lower FRONT PANEL, side lower BACK PANEL, central lower BACK PANEL.
- Place the upper COLLAR and lower COLLAR right sides together and stitch along the outer contour.
- Stitch the inner edges of the side lower and central lower FRONT PANELs, as well as the inner edges of the side lower and central lower BACK PANELs. Stitch the vertical dart on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Attach the lower BACK PANELs to the upper BACK PANEL. Stitch the center back seam.
- Place the pocket on the right side of the upper FRONT PANEL, and the pocket LINING on the lower side FRONT PANEL, right side down, and stitch it. Fold back the seam and topstitch onto the pocket LINING.
- Attach the lower FRONT PANEL to the upper FRONT PANEL, leaving the pocket opening unstitched. Stitch the pocket bag.
- Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, and stitch along the edge line. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side upwards to the NOTCH, which defines the end of the COLLAR insertion. Attach the lower edges of the FACINGs to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the edge. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the edge FACING: in the fastener area – onto the FACING, in the lapel area – onto the FRONT PANEL edge. The stitching is placed 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
- Insert the lower COLLAR into the neckline of the coat. Attach the upper COLLAR to the FACINGs.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the SLEEVE up to the NOTCH. Stitch the side edges of the SLEEVE FACINGs up to the NOTCHES. Place the stitched FACINGs on the bottom of the SLEEVE right sides together and stitch along the lower and side edges up to the NOTCH. Stitch the front edge of the SLEEVE and the side edges of the FACINGs with one seam. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the FACING seams at the corners and turn out the FACINGs, straightening the seams. Press the FACINGs with a pressing cloth.
- Insert the SLEEVES into the armhole according to the NOTCHES. Insert the shoulder pads and SLEEVE head rolls.
- On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the right front SLEEVE seam. Press the LINING. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the FACINGs and the upper COLLAR. Secure the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the COLLAR insertion seams close to the seams.
- Attach the LINING SLEEVES to the lower edge of the SLEEVE FACINGs, fold the excess LINING fabric downwards and press. Attach the LINING to the bottom of the garment. Turn the jacket through the opening in the SLEEVE and stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
- On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast the buttonholes, and on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on the buttons.
