Collared Jacket with Zipper and Drawstring Pocket
A women's hip-length lined jacket with a full-length front zip, princess seams, elastic-gathered side seams and a single drawstring patch pocket. The sleeves are asymmetric: the right one has a gathered band at the upper arm.
When To Wear
- As a light outer layer in spring and early autumn: it is cut from raincoat fabric.
- Over T-shirts and knit tops with jeans or trousers.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Princess seams on the front and back; the side seams are gathered by elastic in a channel from just below the armhole to the hem.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Collar in an upper and an under piece, topstitched and gathered with elastic threaded through it.
Closure: Full-length zip at the centre front.
Sleeves: Set-in. The left sleeve is cut in one piece; the right sleeve is cut in two parts with a topstitched channel and eyelets, and an elastic cord gathers it around the upper arm.
Pockets: One patch pocket with a rounded base on the left front; its faced top edge is gathered by a cord through eyelets.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Finishing: Eyelets near the side seams on the front and back; elastic secured with a 2 cm bar tack below the armhole. Front edge topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge; hem topstitched together with the lining.
Lining: Body and sleeves lined.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A zip set between the front and the facing, elastic channels with eyelets, a two-part sleeve with a cord channel and a lined body.
Fabric Recommendations
Raincoat fabric.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (collar, front facings, pocket facing)
- Zip for the front
- Eyelets
- Elastic tape
- Cord for the pocket
- Elastic cord for the right sleeve
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 1 piece
- Pocket Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Right Sleeve – 1 piece
- Lower Right Sleeve – 1 piece
- Left Sleeve – 1 piece
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pressing template (not cut from fabric): Pocket Control Block – used to press the pocket to shape.
- From fusible interfacing: Stand Collar, Center Front Facing, Pocket Facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Stand Collar and Pocket Facing.
- Stitch the front princess seams joining the Center Front and Side Front and press them open. Stitch the back princess seams joining the Center Back and Side Back and press them open. Stitch the centre back seam and press it open.
- Mark and set the eyelets in the Pocket. Overlock the lower edge of the Pocket Facing. Place the Pocket Facing on the Pocket, right sides together, and stitch along the upper edge of the pocket. Turn the Pocket Facing to the wrong side and press the upper edge of the pocket. Thread the cord through the eyelets. Secure the cord at the side edges of the pocket. Overlock around the pocket. Pull up the cord and press the pocket edges under using the Pocket Control Block. Mark the pocket position on the left front and topstitch the pocket on.
- Mark and set the eyelets near the side edges of the front and back, as marked. Stitch the shoulder seams of the jacket and press them open. Sew the upper Stand Collar into the neckline. Stitch the zip to the front edges, matching the notches. Turn under the front edges along the zip and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams joining the Center Front Facing and Back Neckline Facing and press them open. Sew the lower Stand Collar into the neckline of the Center Front Facing and Back Neckline Facing.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edges, working from the front side upwards and leaving an opening for the elastic channel. Stitch the lower ends of the facings to the front exactly along the hemline. Stitch the upper Stand Collar to the lower Stand Collar. Remove the pins. Turn out the corners and press. Press open the seam allowances of the collar seams and tack them together close to the seams. Topstitch the Stand Collar and thread the elastic through it.
- Stitch the side seams and press them open.
- Mark and set the eyelets on the Lower Right Sleeve. Topstitch along the marking for the cord channel. Stitch the Upper Right Sleeve to the Lower Right Sleeve. Thread the elastic cord through the eyelets and secure it at the sleeve edges. Stitch the underarm seams of the right and left sleeves and press them open. Press up the sleeve hems.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes.
- Stitch the seams of the lining pieces and set in the lining sleeves. Press the lining seam allowances.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facing and Back Neckline Facing.
- Mark and press up the hem of the jacket. Stitch the lining to the sleeve hems. Pin the side seams of the jacket and the lining together. Stitch on both sides of the side seam, 1 cm from it, to form a channel. Thread the elastic through the channel and secure it with a 2 cm horizontal bar tack just below the armhole. Turn up the hem of the jacket together with the lining and topstitch. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the front edge.
