Fitted Notched Lapel Denim Blazer
A women's fitted hip-length jacket in denim with a notched collar, a single-breasted four-button front, a welt chest pocket and patch pockets with welt openings. The fronts are lined, the back is not.
When To Wear
- With jeans, chinos or skirts for everyday wear in spring and autumn.
- Over shirts and T-shirts as a casual jacket.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by darts and side front panels on the front and by darts and princess seams on the back.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels, cut as an upper and an under collar.
Closure: Single-breasted, 4 buttons with buttonholes on the right front.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves with a vent at the hem.
Pockets: A welt chest pocket with a topstitched welt; two patch pockets with pointed bases, each with a welt opening, bar-tacked at the corners.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Finishing: Topstitching 0.2 cm from the front darts, 0.5 cm from the back seams, front edges, collar edge and hem; overlocked seams.
Lining: Fronts only, with a lining dart; the back hem is folded over the front at the side seams.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A notched collar with facings, welt pockets cut into patch pockets, a sleeve vent and a partly lined body.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, welts, centre fronts, back neck facing)
- 4 buttons
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Off-Set Welt – 1 piece
- Patch Pocket – 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Front Lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Off-Set Welt, Center Front, Back Neckline Facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Off-Set Welt, Center Front and Back Neckline Facing.
- Mark the darts on the front and back. Stitch the back darts and press them towards the centre. Stitch the front dart and cut away the dart depth. Cut the pocket opening. Stitch the Side Front to the Center Front and press the seam open. Stitch the pocket opening and press. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the darts.
- Fold the Upper Off-Set Welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and press. Stitch the ends of the welt, trim the excess fabric at the corners and turn the welt right side out. Press the finished welt. Topstitch around the welt 0.2 cm from the edge. Mark the position of the chest pocket. Stitch the welt to the front, turn it up and topstitch the side edges of the welt.
- Place the Upper Collar on the Lower Collar, right sides together, and stitch. Trim the excess fabric at the corners, ease out the seams and press the collar.
- Fold the Off-Set Welt for the patch pocket in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Mark the welt position on the Patch Pocket. Cut a facing strip for the pocket opening from the main fabric. On the welt, mark the line for stitching it to the pocket, checking the width. Place the welt on the pocket, matching the marked lines, and stitch it on. Place the facing strip on the right side of the pocket at the marked upper line and stitch it on. Check from the wrong side that the stitching lines of the welt and facing strip are parallel and the distance between them equals the finished width of the welt. Cut the pocket opening, making diagonal cuts into the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end. Turn the welt and the facing strip through the opening to the wrong side and ease out the edges. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch across the base of the triangles. Overlock the facing strip and secure the pocket opening. Overlock the outer edges of the Patch Pocket. Press down the upper edge of the Patch Pocket and topstitch 0.5 cm from the upper edge. Press the sides of the pocket under along the pattern lines. Mark the pocket position on the front and topstitch the pocket on, with bar tacks at the pocket corners.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge, working from the front side upwards to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Trim the seam allowances at the upper corners. Remove the pins. Turn the front edge right side out and baste it, rolling the seam towards the facing along the closure and towards the front along the lapels.
- Stitch, overlock and press the centre back seam. Stitch, overlock and press the back princess seams joining the Center Back and Side Back. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seams.
- Mark and stitch the dart on the Front Lining. Overlock the shoulder edge of the Front Lining. Press the darts. Mark and overlock the hem edge of the back. Press the hem allowance of the fronts and back to the wrong side. Stitch the Front Lining to the free edge of the Center Front Facing and stitch the lower edge of the front to the Front Lining.
- Stitch the side seams with the back hem allowance folded to the right side of the back, so that the front is enclosed in the back hem allowance. Overlock the side seams, turn the back hem allowance to the wrong side of the back and press.
- Overlock the shoulder edges of the jacket, stitch the shoulder seams and press them open. Stitch the shoulder seams joining the Center Front Facing and Back Neckline Facing. Press the seams open, then sew the Upper Collar into the neckline of the facings and the Lower Collar into the neckline of the fronts and back. Press open the seam allowances of the collar seams and tack them together close to the seams. Tack the shoulder seam allowance of the Front Lining to the shoulder seam of the jacket.
- Overlock the sleeve seam edges. Overlock the hem edge of the sleeve and press it to the wrong side. Stitch the sleeve seam up to the vent notch. Fold the hem allowance to the right side of the sleeve and stitch across the vent corners. Turn the hem allowance to the wrong side of the sleeve and topstitch it.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Overlock the armhole seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the front edges, around the collar and along the hem of the jacket. Remove the basting.
- Mark and make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.
