Utility Denim Coat with Stand Collar and Utility Patch Pockets with flaps

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. Back neckline FACING – 1 QTY
2. Collar stand – 2 QTY
3. Lower pocket FACING – 2 QTY
4. Lower patch pocket – 2 QTY
5. Lower flap – 4 QTY
6. Upper pocket FACING – 1 QTY
7. Upper patch pocket – 1 QTY
8. Upper flap – 2 QTY
9. BACK PANEL trim – 2 QTY
10. FRONT PANEL trim – 4 QTY
11. Upper BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
12. Central BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
13. SIDE PANEL of BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
14. SIDE PANEL of FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
15. Upper FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
16. Central FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
17. Underlap – 2 QTY
18. Shoulder tab - 4 QTY
19. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
20. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. Central BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
2. Upper BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
3. Upper FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
4. SIDE PANEL of BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
5. SIDE PANEL of FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
6. Central FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
7. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
8. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: underlap, lower collar stand, vent of SIDE PANEL of BACK PANEL, underflap, FRONT PANEL trim, BACK PANEL trim.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the underlap, lower collar stand, vent area of the SIDE PANEL of the BACK PANEL, underflap, FRONT PANEL trim, and BACK PANEL trim.
2. Place the upper collar stand and lower collar stand right sides together and stitch the lower collar stand to the upper. Trim, turn out the collar stand corners.
3. Stitch and press open the side SEAM ALLOWANCES of the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL trims. Fold the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL trims right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Trim excess fabric at the rounded ends of the FRONT PANEL trim, turn out and press the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL trims.
4. Stitch and press open the darts of the upper FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch and press open the princess seam of the SIDE PANEL and central FRONT PANEL. Stitch and press open the princess seam of the SIDE PANEL and middle BACK PANEL.
5. Place the shoulder tab pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour, leaving an opening for turning. Turn out and press the shoulder tab.
6. Stitch and press open the side SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch and press open the shoulder SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Place the stitched trim with the upper FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL, align the SEAM ALLOWANCES and baste.
7. Stitch the center SEAM ALLOWANCE of the central BACK PANEL up to the vent. Press the lower vent SEAM ALLOWANCE 1 cm. Press open the center back seam, and press the vent. Topstitch the center back seam diagonally at the upper end of the vent according to the markings, catching the vent allowance.
8. Stitch and press open the side SEAM ALLOWANCES of the SIDE PANEL of the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Attach the upper FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL to the stitched lower FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Remove basting from the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL trims.
9. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE.
10. Place the upper flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Turn out the flap through the upper open SEAM ALLOWANCE. Straighten the seams and topstitch a double decorative stitch 0.2 cm from the flap edge. The processing of the lower flap is similar. Mark the pocket placement on the SLEEVE. Overcast the side SEAM ALLOWANCE of the upper pocket FACING. Stitch the upper pocket FACING to the side and lower SEAM ALLOWANCES of the pocket and overcast. Turn under and topstitch the upper SEAM ALLOWANCE of the pocket. On the pocket FACING, create a pleat and secure it to the pocket with a vertical bar tack 1-1.5 cm. Place the pocket on the marking and topstitch it. Place the flap on the marking and topstitch it. Turn the flap to the right side and topstitch 0.2 cm from the topstitching seam. The processing of the lower pocket is similar.
11. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE. Press up the SLEEVE hem.
12. Place the underlap on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin and stitch along the edge line. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side up to the NOTCH, which defines the end of the collar stand insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the underlaps to the central FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower edge corners. Turn the edges to the right side, straighten the seams and topstitch a double decorative stitch 0.2 cm from the edge. Stitch and press open the side SEAM ALLOWANCES of the back neckline FACING and underlap.
13. Insert the lower collar stand into the coat neckline, and attach the lower collar stand to the back neckline FACING and underlap.
14. Baste the shoulder tab to the upper armhole SEAM ALLOWANCE. Insert the SLEEVES into the armhole according to the NOTCHES. Remove basting.
15. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the right front SLEEVE seam, insert the SLEEVES. Press the LINING seams. Attach the LINING to the inner SEAM ALLOWANCES of the underlaps and the back neckline FACING. Press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the collar stand insertion seams and secure them close to the seams.
16. Attach the coat LINING to the underlap and the back neckline FACING. Turn under the LINING SLEEVES and attach them to the hem allowance of the coat SLEEVE, turn down the excess LINING fabric and press. Turn the coat right side out. Smooth out the LINING, pin the side seams to the coat's side seams and carefully cut along the vent SEAM ALLOWANCES, see