Cutting Plan
From main fabric:
- Center Back Piece – 2 pieces
- Side Panel – 2 pieces
- Undercollar – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Back Neck Facing – 1 piece
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Front Panel – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under Sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Large Pocket Lining – 2 pieces
- Small Pocket Lining – 2 pieces
- Front Panel Lining – 2 pieces
- Center Back Piece – 2 pieces
- Side Panel – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fabric & Materials
From fusible interfacing: front facing, undercollar, vent, flap, stay tape.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the front facing, vent, flap, and undercollar.
- Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the contour. Trim, then turn out the collar corners. Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch. Trim seam allowances at the flap corners and turn out. Press the flap and collar.
- Mark and stitch darts on the back. Press darts towards the center back. Mark and stitch darts on the front panel. Cut the pocket opening. Trim excess dart allowances. Fuse the pocket opening with stay tape. Press the dart open.
- Cut pocket welts for the side welt pocket. Fold pocket welts in half wrong sides together and press. Mark a guideline on the pocket welt parallel to the welt fold for attachment. Mark a guideline on the flap for attachment parallel to the upper edge of the flap, measuring the flap width along its entire length. Mark guidelines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and pocket welts. Stitch pocket lining to the flap. Stitch welts to the front panel. Stitch ends should stop at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correct attachment of the welts from the wrong side (stitches must be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the welts through the created opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the welts so that the pressed folds of the welts meet flush. Secure the pocket end from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch pocket lining to the flap. Insert the flap into the pocket and stitch to the upper pocket welt. Stitch the lower pocket lining to the seam of the lower welt attachment, then stitch the pocket lining. Stitch and press open the princess seam on the front panel.
- Stitch the center back seam of the center back piece up to the vent. Press the lower vent edge by 1 cm. Press open the center back seam, and press the vent. Topstitch the center back seam at the upper end of the vent diagonally according to the marking, catching the vent allowance.
- Stitch and press open the princess seams on the back. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the coat.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem.
- Place the front facing onto the right side of the front panel, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the front panel side upwards to the notch marking the end of collar insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the center front panel strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front edge corners. Understitch the seam allowance of the front edge facing: in the fastening area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the front panel. Place the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams and press. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neck facing and front facing.
- Set the undercollar into the coat neckline, and stitch the upper collar to the back neck facing and front facing. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam, then set the sleeves. Press the lining seams. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neck facing. Press open the collar insertion seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
- Stitch the sleeve lining to the coat sleeve hem allowance, turn excess lining fabric down and press. Turn the coat right side out. Smooth out the lining, pin the side seams to the coat side seams and carefully cut along the vent edges, shifting 1 cm towards the center seam. Before reaching 1 cm from the top of the vent, make diagonal cuts of 1 cm on both sides. Turn the cuts inwards and pin to the vent edges. Reach your hand between the coat and the lining, grasp the pinned edges and pull them out one by one. Stitch the edges, fold the hem down. Straighten the vent edges. At the upper edge of the vent, turn under the lining corner and sew to the vent allowance.
- Mark and overcast buttonholes. Mark and sew on buttons. Mark and sew on a hidden button.
