Cutting Plan
From main fabric:
- 1. Upper front part – 2 pieces
- 2. Undercollar – 1 piece
- 3. Upper collar – 1 piece
- 4. Center front part – 2 pieces
- 5. Side front part – 2 pieces
- 6. Back neck facing – 1 piece
- 7. Side back part – 2 pieces
- 8. Center back part – 2 pieces
- 9. Front facing – 2 pieces
- 10. Upper sleeve part 1 – 2 pieces
- 11. Upper sleeve part 2 – 2 pieces
- 12. Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- 1. Upper front part – 2 pieces
- 2. Center front part – 2 pieces
- 3. Side front part – 2 pieces
- 4. Center back part – 2 pieces
- 5. Side back part – 2 pieces
- 6. Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- 7. Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front facing, undercollar, back neck facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the front facing, undercollar, and back neck facing.
- Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the contour. Trim seam allowances, turn out collar corners. Press the collar.
- Gather the lower edge of the upper front part at the dart intake level.
- Stitch the side front part to the center front part. Press seam open. Stitch the lower front part to the upper front part. Press seam open.
- Mark and stitch the shoulder dart on the back. Press dart towards the center back. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch the side back part to the center back part. Press seam open.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Gather the lower edge of upper sleeve part 1 to match the length of the upper edge of upper sleeve part 2. Stitch upper sleeve parts 1 and 2 together. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Press the sleeve hem.
- Place the front facing onto the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitch from the front side upwards to the notch marking the end of collar insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the center front part strictly along the marked hemline. Trim seam allowances at the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Understitch the front edge seam allowance: in the fastening area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the front piece. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams and press. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neck facing and front facing.
- Set the undercollar into the jacket neckline, and stitch the upper collar to the back neck facing and front facing.
- Set sleeves into armholes according to notches.
- On lining pieces, stitch seams, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam, then set in sleeves. Press lining seams. Stitch lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neck facing. Press open the collar insertion seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
- Stitch lining sleeves to the sleeve hem allowance and jacket hem allowance. Secure pocket lining to the jacket at waist level along the princess seams with a 1 cm bar tack. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- Mark and overcast buttonholes. Mark and sew on buttons.
Tip: If desired, you can omit the gathers on the sleeve. In that case, when cutting, use the pattern piece for the upper sleeve part of the lining.
