Fabric & Materials
FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: Front facing, back neckline facing, side front, center front, upper part of center back with armhole section, hem of center back, armhole of side back, hem of side back, hem of under sleeve, hem of upper sleeve.
Cutting Plan
- From Main Fabric:
- 1. Center Back – 1 piece
- 2. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 3. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 4. Center Front – 2 pieces
- 5. Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 6. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 7. Under Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 8. Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- 9. Welt – 2 pieces
- From Lining Fabric:
- 1. Center Back Lining – 1 piece
- 2. Side Back Lining – 2 pieces
- 3. Side Front Lining – 2 pieces
- 4. Center Front Lining – 2 pieces
- 5. Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
- 6. Upper Sleeve Lining – 2 pieces
- 7. Under Sleeve Lining – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the front facing, back neckline facing, side front, center front, upper part of the center back with armhole section, hem of the center back, armhole of the side back, hem of the side back, hem of the under sleeve, hem of the upper sleeve.
- Mark and stitch the darts on the back. Press the darts towards the center back. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the front. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the back.
- Mark the welt pocket placement. Fold the welt right sides together in half lengthwise and press. Stitch the corners of the welt, trim excess fabric at the corners, and turn the welt right side out. Press the finished welt.
- On the welt, mark the attachment line to the jacket, measuring the width. Place the welt on the right side of one pocket bag piece, right side up, with the finished edge facing down, aligning the raw edges and extending the pocket bag edges beyond the welt by an equal amount. Place the welt on the front piece and align the marked lines. Stitch the welt to the front piece. The welt is positioned between the front piece and the pocket bag. Press the seam allowance of the welt and pocket bag towards the welt. Place the second pocket bag piece on the right side of the front piece, right side down, abutting the welt attachment seam. Baste and stitch at a distance of 0.8-1 cm from the welt attachment seam. Check the correctness of the welt and pocket bag attachment from the wrong side (stitching lines should be parallel). Remove temporary basting threads. Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and pocket bag through the opening to the wrong side, straightening the edges. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch and serge the pocket bag. Baste the welt to the front piece and press. Topstitch the ends of the welt. Remove temporary basting threads.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the front piece upwards, stopping 5cm before the shoulder seams. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the center front piece strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front edge corners.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket. Press open the shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch the back neckline facing to the front facings and press open the shoulder seams of the facing and front facing.
- Understitch the jacket neckline with the facing and front facing. Topstitch the seam allowance 0.2 cm from the seam onto the facing and front facing. Turn the front edges and back neckline facing right side out. Press the neckline and front edges.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve.
- Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set in the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch the lining pieces, leaving an opening in the right sleeve. Press the lining.
- Stitch the lining to the front facings and back neckline facing, to the jacket hem, matching lining seams with garment seams, and to the sleeve hems. Place 7 tack stitches along the jacket hem above the seams.
- Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch closed the turning opening in the sleeve.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
