Fabric & Materials
Main fabric, lining fabric, and fusible interfacing are required. The grainline stabilizer is a strip of fusible interfacing 4 cm wide and 2-3 cm longer than the pocket opening.
Cutting Plan
- From main fabric:
- 1. Back – 2 pieces
- 2. Front – 2 pieces
- 3. Zipper placket – 2 pieces
- 4. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- 5. Front facing – 2 pieces
- 6. Hood – 4 pieces
- 7. Cuff – 2 pieces
- 8. Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 9. Patch pocket – 2 pieces
- 10. Flap – 4 pieces
- 11. Welt – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Chest pocket lining – 4 pieces
- 2. Back – 2 pieces
- 3. Front – 2 pieces
- 4. Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: front facing, cuff, back neckline facing, placket, grainline stabilizer.
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the front facing, cuff, back neckline facing, and placket.
- Mark and stitch the dart on the front. Clip and press the dart open. Mark and stitch the dart on the back. Press the back dart towards the center back.
- Cut a strip for loops 3 cm wide from the main fabric. Fold the strip lengthwise and stitch 0.5 cm from the fold, enclosing one end. Turn the strip right side out and press. Cut loops from the strip. The length of the loop strip is two button diameters plus 4 cm.
- Mark the placement of the loops on the placket. Fold the loops in half crosswise, forming a triangle at the fold. Secure the triangle at its base.
- Place the placket pieces right sides together and stitch around two short edges and one long outer edge, inserting the hanging loops. Trim the placket corners, turn right side out, and press the placket.
- Mark the welt placement. Fold the welt right side in half lengthwise and press. Stitch around the welt corners, trim excess fabric at the corners, and turn the welt right side out. Press the finished welt.
- Interface the welt pocket placement on the front with the grainline stabilizer. On the welt, mark the stitching line to the front, measuring the width. Place the welt on the right side of one pocket lining piece, right side up, with the finished edge down, aligning the raw edges and extending the lining edges beyond the welt by an equal amount. Place the welt on the front and align the marked lines. Stitch the welt to the front. The welt should be between the front and the pocket lining. Press the welt and lining attachment seam towards the welt. Place the second pocket lining piece on the right side of the front, right side down, butt-up to the welt attachment seam. Baste and stitch 0.8-1 cm from the welt attachment seam. Check the accuracy of the welt and pocket lining attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Remove temporary basting threads. Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Through the opening, turn the pocket lining to the wrong side, and straighten the edges. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch and overcast the pocket lining. Baste the welt to the front and press. Topstitch the ends of the welt. Remove temporary basting threads.
- Place the flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim seam allowances at the flap corners and turn right side out. Topstitch along the outer contour of the flaps 0.5 cm from the edge and overcast the upper edge of the flap.
- Mark and stitch the pleats on the pocket. Overcast the outer contour of the pocket and press it according to the pattern piece. Topstitch the upper edge to the pocket, mark the pocket placement, and topstitch it along the contour 0.2 cm from the pocket edge. Place the flap to the mark and topstitch it. Turn the flap to the right side and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Mark the placket placement. Attach the placket to the right front, turn, and topstitch to the front.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the coat.
- Set the sleeves into the open armhole. Stitch the sleeve seam and the coat side seam in one continuous stitch. Press open the side seam and the sleeve seam.
- Mark and overcast the buttonholes on the hood. Stitch and press open the center hood seam. Set the hood into the neckline. Attach the zipper to the hood extensions and the front edge. Fold under and press the front edges in the zipper area.
- Place the hood pieces together and stitch around the contour, leaving the lower neckline edge and extensions free. Press the hood.
- Attach the inner hood to the front facing, stopping 4 cm from the end.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down. Stitch around the hood extensions and front edge along the marked line. Stitching is done from the front side. Attach the lower edges of the front facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front edge corners. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Mark the topstitching placement along the hood edge. Thread the drawstring through the hood. Topstitch along the hood edge. Attach cord ends to the drawstring.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Set the inner hood into the neckline.
