Collared Belted Jacket with Epaulettes

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• COLLAR – 2 QTY
• Collar stand – 2 QTY
• CUFF – 2 QTY
• SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• Pocket – 2 QTY
• Front pocket flap – 4 QTY
• Large upper pocket bag – 1 QTY
• FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• Belt loop – 1 QTY
• Belt – 1 QTY
• Shoulder tab – 4 QTY
• Front FACING – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
• Small upper pocket bag – 1 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: flap, shoulder tab, front FACING, CUFF, GRAIN LINE strip.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the front FACING, flap, shoulder tab, and CUFF.
2. Place COLLAR pieces right sides together and stitch along the contour. Trim, turn out COLLAR corners. Press the COLLAR.
3. Mark the placement of the upper pocket on the FRONT PANEL. Reinforce the pocket opening with a GRAIN LINE strip. Cut pocket FACINGS. Fold pocket FACINGS in half with wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket FACINGS parallel to the fold for attaching. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching pocket FACINGS. Stitch FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL. Finish stitching at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the accuracy of FACING attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the pocket. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn FACINGS through the opening to the wrong side, straighten edges, and adjust FACING ends. Secure pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Place the ZIPPER under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible. Stitch the ZIPPER and attach the small and large pocket bags to the FACING SEAM ALLOWANCES. Stitch the pocket bag and serge.
4. Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES of flap corners and turn out. Press the flap to its finished shape. Serge the upper edge of the flap.
5. Serge the upper edge of the patch pocket. Press the upper SEAM ALLOWANCE of the patch pocket and topstitch. Serge the outer contour of the patch pocket and press SEAM ALLOWANCES according to the pattern.
6. Mark the placement of the pocket and flap on the FRONT PANEL. Topstitch the pocket onto the FRONT PANEL 0.2 cm from the pocket edge. Stitch the flap to the marking, turn back, and topstitch.
7. Place shoulder tab pieces, stitch along the contour, leaving the upper edge free. Turn out the shoulder tab, press, and topstitch along the contour.
8. Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch the belt on three sides, leaving a small opening for turning. Turn out the belt and press it. Topstitch along the belt contour 0.5 cm from the edge. Attach the buckle to the belt. Fold the end of the belt to the wrong side, forming a loop, and topstitch.
9. Serge the outer edge of the front FACING. Place the front FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the marked line. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side. Stitch the lower edges of the front FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower corners of the front. Remove pins. Turn the fronts to the right side, straighten seams, and press. Secure the neckline edge of the FRONT PANEL to the front FACING.
10. Serge the center back edge. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
11. Serge the side and shoulder edges. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket. Press open the shoulder and side seams. Place the shoulder tab on the shoulder seam and stitch to the armhole edge 0.5 cm away. Serge the lower edge of the jacket.
12. Fold the belt loop in half lengthwise, right sides together, align edges, and stitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn out, straighten the seam, positioning it on the fold or forming a 0.1-0.2 cm wide piping on the inside, and press. Cut the belt loop according to the markings. Mark and topstitch the belt loop along the side seams at the waistline.
13. Stitch the collar stands, inserting the COLLAR between them.
14. Stitch the lower collar stand with the COLLAR to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the upper collar stand, and topstitch into the seam of the lower collar stand attachment. Topstitch along the COLLAR. Secure the front FACINGS to the shoulder seams with a 1 cm bar tack.
15. Serge the SLEEVE edges. Stitch and press open the SLEEVE seams.
16. Fold the CUFF in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Stitch the side edges of the CUFF flat and press open. Press the bottom of the CUFF.
17. Attach the CUFFs to the bottom of the SLEEVE and serge the upper edge of the CUFF together with the SLEEVE. Topstitch the CUFF attachment seam to the SLEEVE.
18. Set in the SLEEVES, easing the cap.
19. Hem and topstitch the bottom of the garment.
20. On the right FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes, and on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons. Mark and sew a button on the shoulder tab.