Asymmetric-Zip Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. Placket – 1 QTY
2. BACK PANEL (center) – 2 QTY
3. SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
4. Right FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY
5. Left FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY
6. Right facing – 1 QTY
7. Left facing – 1 QTY
8. BACK PANEL neckline FACING – 1 QTY
9. Hood FACING – 2 QTY
10. Hood – 2 QTY
11. SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. BACK PANEL (center) – 2 QTY
2. SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
3. Right FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY
4. Left FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY
5. Side pocket LINING – 4 QTY
6. Front pocket LINING – 2 QTY
7. Hood – 2 QTY
8. SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: left and right facings, BACK PANEL neckline FACING, GRAIN LINE, hood FACING, placket.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse the left and right facings, BACK PANEL neckline FACING, hood facings, and placket with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
2. Stitch the princess seams on the FRONT PANEL, leaving the pocket opening unstitched. Press the princess seams open. Place the ZIPPER under the slit so that the teeth are visible and stitch it in place. Stitch the side pocket bags to the ZIPPER tapes. Stitch the pocket bags together.
3. Mark the pocket placement on the FRONT PANEL. Fuse the pocket opening with GRAIN LINE. Clarify the pocket placement and the pocket opening line. Cut the pocket opening. Make slanted cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the pocket SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges. Adjust the end of the pocket from the wrong side. Place the ZIPPER under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible. Stitch the ZIPPER in place. Stitch the LINING pieces to the ZIPPER tapes. Stitch the LINING pieces together.
4. Stitch the hood pieces from the main fabric and LINING fabric together. Stitch the hood FACING pieces, then stitch the hood LINING to them. Fold the FACING with the hood right sides together and stitch. Trim the seams, turn the hood to the right side. Topstitch along the edge of the hood.
5. Fold the placket in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the upper and lower corners. Trim the corners and turn the placket out. Press the placket. Stitch the right side of the ZIPPER to the placket.
6. Stitch and press the princess seams on the BACK PANEL. Stitch and press the center seam of the BACK PANEL. Stitch and press the shoulder seams open. Baste the hood into the neckline.
7. Stitch and press the shoulder seams of the facing and FACING. Attach the prepared placket to the FRONT PANEL. Check the correct placement of the pieces on the right FRONT PANEL: FRONT PANEL piece, placket, ZIPPER. Stitch the placket to the FRONT PANEL. Place the facing on the FRONT PANEL and stitch the lower corner, the edge of the front, and the neckline edge in one seam. Trim the corners, turn out and press, clip curved sections. Turn the fronts to the right side, straighten the seams and press. Topstitch along the front and neckline 0.5 cm from the edge.
8. Stitch and press the SLEEVE seams open. Press up the SLEEVE hem. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES.
9. On the LINING fabric pattern pieces, stitch the seams and set the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the right front SLEEVE seam. Press the LINING SEAM ALLOWANCES. Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the facings and the BACK PANEL neckline FACING.
10. Mark and press the hem of the coat. Finish the SLEEVE hem and coat hem with LINING. Secure the LINING to the garment at the waist seams. Turn the coat to the right side through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE closed.
11. Topstitch along the bottom of the garment and the SLEEVE hem.