Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. Contrasting or complementary colored fabric for trim. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; 3 buttons, 1 hidden button.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for dress bottom and sleeve bottom – 3 cm; vent allowance - 6 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center back part - 2 pieces
- Side back part - 2 pieces
- Front bodice - 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From trim fabric:
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center, serge. On the left back piece, along the vertical edge of the vent, trim 5 cm. On both back pieces, from the wrong side, fuse interfacing to the vent. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left piece along the vent fold line. On the right piece, press only the allowance of the right side of the vent (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the top edge of the vent. Serge the center back edge separately on each piece. Serge the vent allowances. Stitch the center back seam up to the vent corner. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right piece. Press the center seam allowances open, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching.
- Stitch bust and waist darts on the front bodice. Press bust dart depths upwards, waist darts towards the center.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Trim allowances at corners, clip at the mark, turn collar right side out, shape and press.
- Place the front facing and front bodice right sides together and stitch the front edge and lapel up to the mark. Clip allowances at the mark, turn pieces right side out, shape, and press.
- Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Serge outer edges.
- Attach the lower collar to the neckline of the garment, and the upper collar to the neckline of the facing, press allowances open, secure them together. Secure the shoulder seams of the front facings to the shoulder seams of the garment.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches, press allowances and serge.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve hem, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
- Serge buttonholes and sew on buttons. Sew on the hidden button.
