Color-Block Faux Leather Coat
A knee-length women's coat in faux leather of two colours: a contrast lattice insert frames rounded-corner panels on the front, back and sleeves. Stand collar, separating zip at the centre front, full lining.
When To Wear
- In autumn and spring over trousers, jeans or a fitted dress.
- With boots and plain knitwear that leave the colour blocking in view.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, slightly flared towards the hem.
Length: About knee length.
Collar: Two-piece stand collar, interfaced, with the upper stand joined to the facing.
Front: On each front a contrast insert holds five panels with rounded corners: yoke, middle, lower, upper side and lower side. Each panel seam is topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam.
Closure: Separating zip set into the front edge; the front edges are topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves with front and back inserts, topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Back: Centre back seam; the same lattice construction as the front, with yoke, middle, lower, upper side and lower side panels.
Finishing: The contrast inserts may be cut in several parts if the material is too small for one piece.
Lining: Full lining, joined to the facings, stand collar, sleeve hems and coat hem.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Setting many rounded-corner panels into a lattice insert in faux leather, with even topstitching, plus a zip set between the front and facing and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Faux garment leather in two colours.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, stand collar, yokes, hem allowances of the sleeves and contrast inserts)
- Separating zip
- Shoulder pads and sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- 1. Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- 2. Middle Back – 2 pieces
- 3. Lower Back – 2 pieces
- 4. Contrasting Back Inset – 2 pieces
- 5. Lower Side Back – 2 pieces
- 6. Upper Side Back – 2 pieces
- 7. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 8. Middle Front – 2 pieces
- 9. Lower Front – 2 pieces
- 10. Upper Side Front – 2 pieces
- 11. Lower Side Front – 2 pieces
- 12. Contrasting Front Inset – 2 pieces
- 13. Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- 14. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 15. Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 16. Back Sleeve Inset – 2 pieces
- 17. Front Sleeve Inset – 2 pieces
Tip: The Contrasting Front Inset and Contrasting Back Inset can be cut into additional pieces if desired, depending on the size of the material used.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Stand Collar, Back Yoke and Front Yoke, and to the hem allowances of the Sleeve, Contrasting Front Inset and Contrasting Back Inset.
- Place the upper and lower Stand Collar right sides together and stitch along the upper edge.
- Stitch the Front Yoke to the Contrasting Front Inset. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Middle Front to the Contrasting Front Inset. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Lower Front to the Contrasting Front Inset. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Upper Side Front to the Contrasting Front Inset. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Lower Side Front to the Contrasting Front Inset. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Back Yoke to the Contrasting Back Inset. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Upper Side Back to the Contrasting Back Inset. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Middle Back to the Contrasting Back Inset. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Lower Back to the Contrasting Back Inset. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Lower Side Back to the Contrasting Back Inset. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch the lower Stand Collar into the neckline of the coat.
- Place the fronts right sides together, align the edges and match the yokes, then check that the front edges are the same length. Stitch the separating zip to the front edges. Fold the front edges under along the zip section and press through a pressing cloth.
- Stitch the upper Stand Collar to the Center Front Facing.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the front, right side down. Stitch the ends of the stand collar and the front edge, stitching from the front side. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Turn the front edges right side out and ease the seams into place. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the Back Sleeve Inset to the Sleeve. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Front Sleeve Inset to the Sleeve. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches.
- Attach the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Sew the lining pieces together, leaving an opening in the sleeve seam. Set in the lining sleeves and press the lining.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the upper Stand Collar. Press open the seam allowances of the collar seams and tack them together close to the seams. Stitch the lower edges of the sleeve linings and the coat lining to the sleeve hems and the coat hem.
