Double-Breasted Peacoat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL Center – 1 QTY
2. BACK PANEL Side – 2 QTY
3. Lower COLLAR – 1 QTY
4. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
5. FRONT PANEL Side – 2 QTY
6. FRONT PANEL Center – 2 QTY
7. FACING – 2 QTY
8. Welt – 4 QTY
9. Belt – 2 QTY
10. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
11. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. BACK PANEL Center – 1 QTY
2. BACK PANEL Side - 2 QTY
3. FRONT PANEL Side – 2 QTY
4. FRONT PANEL Center – 2 QTY
5. Pocket Bag – 4 QTY
6. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
7. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, FRONT PANEL Center, upper part of BACK PANEL Center, armhole of BACK PANEL Side, SLEEVE vent, lower COLLAR, welt, vent area on BACK PANEL; hem SEAM ALLOWANCES: BACK PANEL Side, BACK PANEL Center, lower SLEEVE, upper SLEEVE, FRONT PANEL Side.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse the FACING, FRONT PANEL Center, upper part of BACK PANEL Center, armhole of BACK PANEL Side, SLEEVE vent, lower COLLAR, welt, vent area on BACK PANEL; hem SEAM ALLOWANCES: BACK PANEL Side, lower SLEEVE, upper SLEEVE, BACK PANEL Center, FRONT PANEL Side.
2. Place the upper COLLAR and lower COLLAR right sides together and stitch the lower COLLAR to the upper COLLAR. Trim, turn out the COLLAR corners.
3. Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin and stitch along the edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side up to the NOTCH, which defines the end of the COLLAR attachment. Stitch the lower edges of the FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower edges. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the edge stitching: in the fastening area – to the FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL edge. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
4. Fold the upper welt with the lower, right sides together, and stitch along the outer contour. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the rounded corners and turn out. Press the welt, straightening the edge. Stitch the pocket bag to the welt.
5. On the right side of the FRONT PANEL Side, place the pocket bag, and on the FRONT PANEL Center, place the pocket bag with the attached welt according to the NOTCHES, right side down. Stitch the pocket bag to the pocket opening SEAM ALLOWANCE. Fold back the seam of the FRONT PANEL Side and topstitch it to the pocket bag.
6. Stitch the FRONT PANEL darts and the pocket bag. NOTCH the SEAM ALLOWANCE at the beginning and end of the pocket opening, press open the dart SEAM ALLOWANCES, pressing the pocket. Topstitch the welt on both sides to the FRONT PANEL Side.
7. Stitch the BACK PANEL darts up to the vent. Press the lower vent edge by 1 cm. Press the BACK PANEL dart and vent towards the center back. Topstitch the BACK PANEL dart at the upper end of the vent diagonally according to the markings, catching the SEAM ALLOWANCE under the vent.
8. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat. Press open the shoulder and side seams of the coat.
9. Attach the lower COLLAR to the coat neckline and stitch the upper COLLAR to the FACINGS.
10. Stitch the shaped elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Press the elbow seam of the SLEEVE.
11. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE. Press the SLEEVE hem.
12. Attach the SLEEVES to the armhole according to the NOTCHES.
13. Attach the shoulder pads and SLEEVE head rolls.
14. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam. Place the LINING and coat right sides together and stitch to the inner edges of the FACINGS and the upper COLLAR. Press open the COLLAR attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure close to the seams. Turn under the LINING SLEEVES and stitch to the hem of the coat SLEEVE, turn the excess LINING fabric down and press. Turn the coat right side out. Straighten the LINING, pin the side seams to the coat side seams and carefully cut along the vent edges, shifting 1 cm towards the center seam. Before reaching 1 cm from the top of the vent, make diagonal cuts of 1 cm in both directions. Turn the cuts inwards and pin to the vent edges. Insert your hand between the coat and the LINING, grasp the pinned edges and pull them out one by one. Stitch the edges, fold the hem down. Straighten the vent edges. At the upper edge of the vent, turn under the LINING corner and sew it to the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE.
15. Stitch the LINING to the coat hem. Turn the coat through the opening in the SLEEVE and stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
16. Fold the belt right sides together and stitch along the outer contour, leaving an opening in the upper belt seam in the middle. Turn out the belt, press, and stitch the opening in the middle.
17. On the right FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes, and on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons.
18. Mark and sew on buttons on the BACK PANEL. Fasten the belt.