Faux Leather Coat with Waist Seam
A knee-length women's coat for faux leather with a horizontal waist seam, a fitted bodice shaped by vertical darts and a panelled lower part. Four-button front, rounded collar, in-seam pockets, full lining.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over dresses, skirts or slim trousers.
- As a fitted town coat for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist, straight below it, knee length.
Collar: Small collar with rounded ends and short lapels; the under collar is set into the neckline and the upper collar is attached to the facings.
Front: Single-breasted, four buttons and buttonholes; vertical darts in the upper front; the lower front is cut in a central and a side panel and joined to the upper front at the waist seam. Front edges topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam.
Pockets: In-seam pockets in the front waist seam, with a pocket lining.
Back: Centre back seam, vertical darts in the upper back and a waist seam; the lower back is cut in central and side panels.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls. The lower edge is finished with a cut facing, worn turned back as a cuff.
Finishing: Optional decorative cord laced through punched holes at the top of the darts, along the waist seams, the front sleeve seams and the collar break.
Lining: Full lining, bagged out through an opening in the right sleeve lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Joining panels at a waist seam with in-seam pockets, a collar set between the coat and the facings, faced sleeve ends and a bagged lining in faux leather.
Fabric Recommendations
Faux garment leather.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, upper fronts, central lower fronts, under collar, hem allowances)
- 4 buttons
- Shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls
- Decorative cord (optional)
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Center Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Side Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Side Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Center Lower Front Part – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve Facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 1 piece
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket Lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Upper Front, Center Lower Front Part, Lower Collar; hem allowances of Side Lower Front, Lower Side Back and Center Lower Back.
- Tip: If desired, punch holes with a special tool at the top of the darts on the front and back, along the seams joining the lower front and lower back to the upper parts, along the front sleeve seams and at the collar notches, and thread a decorative cord through the holes.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Upper Front, Center Lower Front Part and Lower Collar, and to the hem allowances of the Side Lower Front, Lower Side Back and Center Lower Back.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edge.
- Stitch the inner edges of the Side Lower Front and Center Lower Front Part together, and the inner edges of the Lower Side Back and Center Lower Back together. Stitch the vertical darts on the Upper Front and Upper Back. Stitch the lower back to the Upper Back. Stitch the centre back seam.
- Place the Pocket right side down on the right side of the Upper Front, and the Pocket Lining right side down on the Side Lower Front, and stitch them on. Press the seam allowances towards the pocket lining and topstitch them to it.
- Stitch the lower front to the Upper Front, leaving the pocket opening unstitched. Stitch the pocket pieces together around the edges.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge, stitching from the front side up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Understitch the front edge seam allowances 0.2 cm from the seam: onto the facing along the buttoned section, and onto the front along the lapels. Turn the front edges right side out and ease the seams into place.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch the Lower Collar into the neckline of the coat. Stitch the Upper Collar to the facings.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve up to the notch. Stitch the side edges of the Upper Sleeve Facing and Lower Sleeve Facing together up to the notches. Place the joined facings on the lower edge of the sleeve, right sides together, and stitch along the lower edge and the side edges up to the notch. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve and the side edges of the facings in one continuous seam. Trim the facing seam allowances at the corners, turn the facings right side out and ease the seams into place. Press the facings through a pressing cloth.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve. Press the lining. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Upper Collar. Tack the seam allowances of the collar seams together close to the seams.
- Stitch the sleeve linings to the lower edges of the sleeve facings; fold the excess lining down and press. Stitch the lining to the coat hem. Turn the coat right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining and stitch the opening closed.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.
