Leather-Trimmed Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. Central upper BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 2. Central lower BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 3. Side upper BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 4. Side lower BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 5. Under COLLAR – 1 QTY
• 6. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
• 7. Side upper FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 8. Side lower FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 9. Central upper FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 10. Central lower FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 11. Welt pocket flap – 2 QTY
• 12. FACING – 2 QTY
• 13. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 14. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
• 1. Central BACK PANEL – 1 QTY
• 2. Side BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 3. Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 4. Central FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 5. Pocket bag – 4 QTY
• 6. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 7. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, central upper FRONT PANEL, central lower FRONT PANEL, upper part of central BACK PANEL with armhole section, vent section, armhole of side BACK PANEL, SLEEVE vent, under COLLAR, welt pocket flap; hem SEAM ALLOWANCES: side BACK PANEL, BACK PANEL, lower SLEEVE, side lower FRONT PANEL, upper SLEEVE.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse the FACING, central upper FRONT PANEL, central lower FRONT PANEL, upper part of central BACK PANEL with armhole section, vent section, armhole of side BACK PANEL, under COLLAR; hem SEAM ALLOWANCES: side BACK PANEL, BACK PANEL, side lower FRONT PANEL, lower SLEEVE, upper SLEEVE with vent section.
2. Place the upper COLLAR and under COLLAR right sides together and stitch the under COLLAR to the upper COLLAR. Trim, turn out the COLLAR corners.
3. Fold the welt pocket flap in half with the wrong side in and press. Stitch the welt pocket flap to the upper edge of the side lower FRONT PANEL (between the NOTCHES).
4. On the right side of the side upper FRONT PANEL and side lower FRONT PANEL, place the pocket bag right side down along the NOTCHES and stitch it. Fold back the seam and topstitch onto the pocket bag. Topstitch the side edges of the welt pocket flap on both sides to the upper FRONT PANEL. Stitch the pocket bag.
5. Stitch the central upper FRONT PANEL to the central lower FRONT PANEL. Press the seams open.
6. Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin and stitch along the marked line. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side up to the NOTCH, which defines the end of the COLLAR insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the front edge FACING: in the fastener area – to the FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
7. Overlock the relief seams from the bottom to the waist. Stitch and press open the FRONT PANEL reliefs.
8. Stitch the side upper BACK PANEL to the side lower BACK PANEL and the central upper BACK PANEL to the central lower BACK PANEL. Press open the attachment seams.
9. Stitch the BACK PANEL reliefs. Overlock the relief seams from the bottom to the waist and press open.
10. Stitch the center back seam. Press the lower vent edge by 1 cm. Press the center back seam and vent towards the center back. Topstitch the center back seam at the upper end of the vent diagonally according to the marking, catching the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE.
11. Overlock the side seams from the bottom to the waist. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat. Press open the shoulder and side seams.
12. Stitch the elbow seam of the SLEEVE and the vent corners on the lower and upper SLEEVE. Press open the SLEEVE elbow seam, make a NOTCH and press the vent.
13. Stitch and press open the front SLEEVE seam. Press the SLEEVE hem.
14. Insert the under COLLAR into the coat neckline.
15. Insert the SLEEVES into the armhole according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE head rolls.
16. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the SLEEVES. Overlock the LINING seams from the bottom to the waist and press. Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the FACINGS and the upper COLLAR. Press open the COLLAR insertion SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure them close to the seams.
17. Fold under the LINING SLEEVES and stitch to the hem of the coat SLEEVE, turn the excess LINING fabric down and press. Turn the coat right side out. Smooth the LINING, pin the side seams to the coat side seams and carefully cut along the vent edges, shifting 1 cm towards the center seam. Before reaching 1 cm from the top of the vent, make diagonal cuts of 1 cm on both sides. Fold the cuts inwards and pin to the vent edges. Insert a hand between the coat and the LINING, grasp the pinned edges and pull them out one by one. Stitch the edges, fold the hem down. Straighten the vent edges. At the upper edge of the vent, fold the LINING corner under and sew to the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE. Fold the bottom of the coat LINING and topstitch the hem so that the LINING is 1 cm shorter than the coat.
18. On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast the buttonholes, and on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on the buttons. Mark and sew.