Tweed Jacket with Decorative Waist Tabs
A short, fitted women's jacket with a rounded collar, front and back yokes, princess seams topstitched 0.7 cm from the seam, and buttoned tabs that come out of the back princess seams and fasten on the front at the hem. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In autumn and spring over blouses, fine knits and dresses.
- With straight trousers, jeans or a pencil skirt.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.
Length: Short, ending at the high hip.
Collar: Rounded collar with under and upper collar, the under collar interfaced.
Front: Front yoke; princess seams from the yoke to the hem; facings.
Closure: Single-breasted, buttonholes on the right front; the top button sits at the front end of the collar.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves, the elbow seam topstitched 0.7 cm from the seam; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Waist: Two lined tabs caught in the back princess seams, wrapping to the front and buttoning on at the hem.
Back: Back yoke, centre back seam and princess seams.
Finishing: Optional contrast bias piping in the edges of the collar, front, tabs, sleeve hems and jacket hem.
Lining: Full lining, bagged out through an opening in the sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Princess seams with topstitching, a two-piece collar set between the jacket and facing, two-piece sleeves, tabs set into seams and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool coating fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, centre fronts, yokes, back armholes, under collar, hem allowances)
- 6 buttons
- Shoulder pads and sleeve heads
- Contrast bias tape (optional, for piping)
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- 1. Center Back – 2 pieces
- 2. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 3. Back Yoke – 1 piece
- 4. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 5. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 6. Center Front – 2 pieces
- 7. Lower Collar – 1 piece
- 8. Upper Collar – 1 piece
- 9. Waistband – 4 pieces
- 10. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 11. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 12. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- 1. Center Back – 1 piece
- 2. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 3. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 4. Center Front – 2 pieces
- 5. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 6. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Center Front, Front Yoke, Back Yoke, the armhole of the Side Back and the Lower Collar, and to the hem allowances of the Side Back, Center Back, Lower Sleeve and Upper Sleeve.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edge. Clip the corners and turn the collar right side out.
- Place the Waistband pieces right sides together in pairs and stitch around the outer edge, forming the two tabs. Clip the corners and turn the tabs right side out. Press the tabs and make a buttonhole in each.
- Stitch the front princess seams (Center Front to Side Front) and press. Topstitch along the front princess seams 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back), catching in the Waistband tabs. Press the back princess seams and topstitch along them 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge, stitching from the front side up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Understitch the front edge seam allowances to the facing 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out and ease the seams into place.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket. Press the shoulder and side seams open.
- Stitch the Lower Collar into the neckline and the Upper Collar to the facings.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve) and press. Topstitch along the elbow seam 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the front seam of the sleeve and press it open. Press up the sleeve hem.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Upper Collar. Press open the seam allowances of the collar seams and tack them together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the hems of the jacket and sleeves. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining and stitch the opening closed.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.
