Faux Fur Drawstring Coat
A long, flared women's coat in short-pile faux fur, gathered on drawstrings at the midriff and near the sleeve hems. It has a high collar, an edge-to-edge front fastened with hidden hooks, and a full lining.
When To Wear
- In winter over dresses, skirts or trousers.
- With the drawstrings pulled in to shape the waist, or left loose for a straighter line.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Flared from the bust to the hem; gathered on cords at the midriff and waist.
Length: Ankle length.
Collar: High collar with a separate trim strip on the upper collar; the under collar is set into the neckline and the upper collar joined to the facings.
Front: Bust darts; edge-to-edge front with facings.
Closure: 6 hooks and loops set through the front edges and sewn to the facings on edge tape, hidden on the right side.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a dart, shoulder pads and sleeve heads. A drawstring channel near the hem gathers the lower sleeve; the cord comes out through the elbow seam.
Waist: Drawstring channels of lining fabric stitched to the inside; the cords come out through openings in the side seams.
Back: Gathered on the same drawstrings as the front.
Lining: Full lining, 1 cm shorter than the coat; the coat hem is finished by hand.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Sewing faux fur, drawstring channels on the body and sleeves, setting hooks through the front edge, and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Short-pile faux fur.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (also for the drawstring channels)
- 6 hooks and loops
- Edge tape for the hooks
- Cord for the drawstrings
- Shoulder pads and sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Collar Trimming – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the Upper Collar Trimming to the Upper Collar.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edges. Turn the collar right side out, rolling a narrow edge of the upper collar to the underside.
- Stitch the bust dart on the Front.
- Place the drawstring channel strip of lining fabric on the wrong side of the coat at the markings, turning under the end of the strip. Baste the strip to the coat and stitch it on along the markings.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the Front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge, stitching from the front side up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Turn the front edges right side out and ease the seams into place.
- Stitch the shoulder seams. Stitch the side seams, leaving openings for the cord.
- Stitch the Lower Collar into the neckline and the Upper Collar to the facings.
- Stitch the dart on the sleeve. Stitch the front sleeve seam.
- Place the drawstring channel strip of lining fabric on the wrong side of the sleeve at the markings, turning under the end of the strip. Baste both edges of the strip to the sleeve and stitch it on along the markings.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, leaving an opening for the cord.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the wrong side of the coat, mark the positions of the hooks. Pierce holes for the hooks and loops with a special tool. Push the hooks (or loops) through the holes and thread a 40–50 mm piece of edge tape through the eye of each hook (or loop). Sew the hooks (or loops) to the Center Front Facing by their eyes and secure the ends of the tape threaded through them.
- Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves. Overlock the lining seams from the hem up to the waist. Press the lining. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Upper Collar. Tack together the seam allowances of the collar seams. Turn under the lower edge of the sleeve linings and stitch them to the sleeve hem allowance of the coat; fold the excess lining down and press. Turn the coat right side out through the open hem. Trim the lining hem, turn it up and topstitch so that the lining is 1 cm shorter than the coat. Turn up the coat hem and stitch it by hand.
- Thread the cord through the drawstring channels. Draw up the fabric on the cords, distribute the gathers evenly and tie off the cord ends.
