Jacket with Cut-On Collar and Curved Front Seams
A hip-length women's jacket with a one-piece collar cut in one with a wide front band that curves around the front hem into a back hem band, front and back yokes, flap pockets in the front yoke seam and buttoned cuffs. Unlined, with double topstitching throughout.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over a T-shirt, blouse or fine knit.
- With jeans, straight trousers or a slim skirt.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, with vertical seams on the front and back.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Shawl-type collar with a centre back seam, cut in one with the front band and lying open to a V at the neck.
Front: Front yoke over three vertical panels on each side; the front band runs from the collar down the front edge and rounds off at the hem, leaving a curved opening at the centre front.
Closure: Single-breasted, three buttons with buttonholes on the right front.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves with a slit at the hem and a buttoned cuff.
Pockets: Pockets set into the front yoke seam, covered by flaps with a buttonhole and button.
Back: Back yoke, a centre panel with two side panels, and a hem band joined to the front band at the side seams.
Finishing: Double topstitching 0.2 cm from the seams and edges on the panels, yokes, flaps, collar and front band.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Pockets set into a yoke seam, a collar cut in one with the band, sleeve slits with cuffs, and even double topstitching on stretch velvet.
Fabric Recommendations
Stretch printed velvet.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front band, cuffs, flaps)
- 7 buttons
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- 1. Back Yoke – 1 piece
- 2. Middle Back – 1 piece
- 3. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 4. Lower Back – 2 pieces
- 5. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 6. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 7. Middle Front – 2 pieces
- 8. Center Front – 4 pieces
- 9. Side Middle Front – 2 pieces
- 10. Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 11. Cuff – 2 pieces
- 12. Flap – 4 pieces
- 13. Upper Pocket – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front, Cuff, Flap.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front, Cuff and Flap.
- Stitch the Side Middle Front to the Side Front. Stitch the Middle Front to the Side Middle Front. Topstitch a double row 0.2 cm from the seams.
- Place each Flap on its underflap, right sides together, and stitch around the outer edge. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn right side out. Topstitch a double row around the outer edge of the flap 0.2 cm from the edge. Place the flap on the right side of the Front Yoke with its raw edges level with the lower edge of the yoke, place one Upper Pocket piece on top of the flap and baste all layers together. Place the second Upper Pocket piece on the right side of the front below the yoke. Stitch on the flap and the pocket pieces. Stitch the Front Yoke to the front. Turn the pocket pieces to the inside, align them and stitch them together. Overlock the pocket around the outer edge and topstitch it to the front. Clip the seam allowance at the ends of the pocket. Press the yoke seam towards the yoke and topstitch.
- Stitch the Side Back to the Middle Back. Stitch the Back Yoke to the back. Topstitch a double row 0.2 cm from the seams.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch the centre back collar seam on the upper Center Front pieces (upper collar) and on the lower Center Front pieces (under collar). Stitch the side edges of the lower Center Front pieces to one Lower Back, and the side edges of the upper Center Front pieces to the other Lower Back. Overlock the inner edge of the upper band (upper Center Front with Lower Back).
- Stitch the lower band (lower Center Front with Lower Back) to the front and back, inserting the cut-on collar into the neckline at the same time and matching the notches.
- Place the upper band on the lower band, right sides together, and pin along the front edges, which are cut in one with the collar; pin the edges of the upper and under collar together. Stitch along the front edges and the collar.
- Turn the upper band to the wrong side. Baste the edges and press. Topstitch a double row along the front edges and collar 0.2 cm from the outer edge. Topstitch the upper collar, cut in one with the Center Front, 0.2 cm from the seam joining the lower band to the jacket.
- Mark the length of the slit on the sleeve and stitch the sleeve seam. Press under 1 cm along the upper edge of the inner half of the Cuff. Fold the Cuff in half, right sides together, and stitch the ends. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn the cuff right side out.
- Stitch the outer half of the Cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve, then topstitch the inner half in place.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches.
- Make buttonholes on the Flaps and Cuffs and sew on the buttons. Make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.
