CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- BACK NECK FACING – 1 QTY
- BACK PANEL – 1 QTY
- Upper pocket – 1 QTY
- Lower pocket – 1 QTY
- Left FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY
- Right FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY
- Left facing – 1 QTY
- Right facing – 1 QTY
- COLLAR – 2 QTY
- SLEEVE – 2 QTY
- From LINING fabric:
- BACK PANEL – 1 QTY
- Left FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY
- Right FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY
- SLEEVE – 2 QTY
Attention! BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL pieces from LINING fabric are cut WITHOUT considering the BACK NECK FACING and facings, respectively.
TIP: If desired, decorative TRIM STRIP can be topstitched along the edge of the front opening, COLLAR, and SLEEVE.
Fabric & Materials
FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: left facing, right facing, BACK NECK FACING, lower COLLAR; hem SEAM ALLOWANCES: SLEEVE, BACK PANEL.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the left facing and right facing, BACK NECK FACING, lower COLLAR; hem SEAM ALLOWANCES: SLEEVE, BACK PANEL.
- Place the upper COLLAR and lower COLLAR right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge of the COLLAR. Trim, turn out the COLLAR corners.
- Stitch the vertical darts on the FRONT PANELS.
- Box pleats are the wrong side of a knife pleat. Form box pleats on the pockets and secure them in the middle of the pleat.
- Attach the pocket LINING to the upper edge of the pocket and stitch the LINING and pocket edges along the contour, leaving an opening in the side seam about 5 cm long for turning out the pocket. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the pocket corners and turn out the pocket.
- Mark the pocket placement. Place the pockets on the FRONT PANEL according to the markings and topstitch the patch pockets. Secure the upper corners of the pockets with a double stitch.
- Stitch the vertical darts on the BACK PANEL.
- Place the facing on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side upwards to the NOTCH, which defines the end of the COLLAR attachment. Attach the lower edges of the facings to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front opening corners. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the front opening: in the fastener area – to the facing, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front openings to the right side, straighten the seams. Press the hem SEAM ALLOWANCE to the wrong side.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the garment. On the right side seam, the stitching should end at the marked lower edge line of the FRONT PANEL.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the BACK NECK FACING and facings.
- Attach the lower COLLAR to the jacket neckline, attach the upper COLLAR to the neckline of the facings and FACING. Secure the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the COLLAR attachment close to the seams.
- Stitch the SLEEVE seam.
- Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE head rolls.
- On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the left side seam for subsequent turning out. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the facings and BACK NECK FACING.
- Attach the LINING to the lower edge of the left FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Attach the LINING to the lower edge of the right FRONT PANEL. Finish the unstitched section of the right side seam with the LINING. Turn the garment through the opening in the LINING side seam, straighten, press.
- Attach the LINING to the lower edge of the SLEEVE, pulling the SLEEVE through the technical opening. Stitch the technical opening closed.
- On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast buttonholes; on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons.
