Apache-Collar Jacket with Curved Front Seams

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. BACK YOKE – 1 QTY
• 2. BACK CENTER PANEL – 1 QTY
• 3. BACK SIDE PANEL - 2 QTY
• 4. BACK LOWER PANEL - 2 QTY
• 5. FRONT YOKE – 2 QTY
• 6. FRONT SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
• 7. FRONT CENTER PANEL – 2 QTY
• 8. FRONT CENTRAL PANEL – 4 QTY
• 9. FRONT SIDE-CENTER PANEL – 2 QTY
• 10. SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 11. CUFF – 2 QTY
• 12. FLAP – 4 QTY
• 13. UPPER POCKET BAG – 4 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: facing, CUFF, FLAP.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the facing, CUFF, and FLAP.
2. Stitch the front side-center panel to the front side panel. Stitch the front center panel to the front side-center panel. Topstitch with a double decorative stitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
3. Fold the FLAP with the underflap wrong sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners of the FLAP and turn out. Topstitch with a double decorative stitch along the outer contour of the FLAP 0.2 cm from the edge. Align the open edges of the FLAP with the yoke edge, placing the FLAP on the right side of the front yoke, then place the upper pocket bag on top of the FLAP, baste all together. Place the lower pocket bag on the right side of the front lower panel. Stitch the FLAP and pocket bags. Stitch the yoke to the FRONT PANEL. Turn the pocket bags inwards, align, and stitch. Overlock the pocket bag along the outer contour and topstitch the pocket bag to the FRONT PANEL. Slash the seam near the pocket. Press the seam towards the yoke and topstitch.
4. Stitch the back side panel to the back center panel. Stitch the yoke to the BACK PANEL. Topstitch with a double decorative stitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
5. Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
6. Stitch the center COLLAR seam on the front upper central panel and front lower central panel. Stitch the side seams of the front lower central panel and back lower panel. Stitch the side seams of the front upper central panel and back upper lower panel. Overlock the inner edge of the front upper central panel with the back lower panel.
7. Stitch the front lower central panel with the back lower panel to the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL, simultaneously inserting the one-piece COLLAR into the neckline. Aligning NOTCHES.
8. Fold the front upper central panel with the back lower panel right sides together with the front lower central panel and back lower panel and pin to the edges of the facings, which are cut as one with the COLLAR. Pin the edges of the upper and lower COLLAR. Stitch the facings along the edge and COLLAR.
9. Turn the front upper panel with the back lower panel to the wrong side. Baste the edges and press. Topstitch with a double decorative stitch along the edge of the facing and COLLAR 0.2 cm from the outer edge. Topstitch the upper COLLAR, cut as one with the front central panel, 0.2 cm from the seam of the front lower central panel with the back lower panel.
10. Mark the slit length on the SLEEVE and stitch the SLEEVE seams. Press the upper edge of the lower CUFF by 1 cm. Fold the CUFF in half right side in and stitch the side seams of the CUFF. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners and turn out the CUFF.
11. Stitch the upper CUFF to the lower edge of the SLEEVE, and topstitch the lower CUFF.
12. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes, matching NOTCHES.
13. Overlock buttonholes on the FLAP and CUFF and sew on buttons. On the right FRONT PANEL, overlock buttonholes, on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons.