Long Hooded Belted Coat with Patch Pockets
A women's below-the-knee coat in a straight cut, with a two-piece hood, cut-on front facings closed by concealed magnetic snaps, patch pockets and a self-fabric belt attached at the side seams. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- As an everyday coat in autumn and mild winter weather, with the hood for wind and rain.
- Over knitwear and trousers or a midi dress: the straight cut leaves room for layers.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, loose cut, drawn in at the waist by the belt.
Length: Below the knee, with short slits at the lower side seams on the drawing.
Collar: Two-piece hood with a centre seam, hemmed along the front edge and set into the neckline between the front facings.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves with a dropped shoulder line; the sleeve cap is eased in with a running stitch and shrunk with the iron before setting. Shoulder pads.
Closure: No visible buttons: magnetic snap buttons are set on the cut-on front facings, each backed with a small piece of fabric. The front edge is topstitched.
Pockets: Two patch pockets at hip level with a cut-on top facing, topstitched along the facing and edge-stitched to the fronts.
Back: Centre back seam, pressed open.
Waist: Self-fabric belt, topstitched 1.0 cm from the edge and attached to the side seams.
Lining: Full lining of the back, fronts and sleeves, sewn to the facings, hood seam and sleeve hems.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A lined coat, a hood set between the coat and the cut-on facings, an eased sleeve cap and magnetic snaps fitted into the facings.
Fabric Recommendations
Coating fabrics: lightweight wool coating (drap), velour, bouclé.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, pockets, hem allowances)
- Magnetic snap buttons
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Back - 2 pieces
- 2. Front - 2 pieces
- 3. Sleeve - 2 pieces
- 4. Hood - 2 pieces
- 5. Waistband (belt) - 1 piece
- 6. Pocket - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- 7. Back - 2 pieces
- 8. Front - 2 pieces
- 9. Sleeve - 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: reinforce the cut-on front facings and the pockets with interfacing. Additionally, press the interfacing to the hem seam allowances.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the cut-on front facings and the pockets with fusible interfacing (Heat-activated interfacings are pressed to the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
- Patch pockets. Turn the cut-on top facing of each pocket to the right side and stitch to the side edges. Turn the facing to the wrong side, also turn the seam allowances along the remaining edges of the pocket to the wrong side. Topstitch the pocket along the facing. Pin the pocket to the front and topstitch close to the edge.
- Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch the hood pieces, press seam allowances open. Turn the hood hem allowance to the wrong side and hem. Baste the hood into the neckline.
- Install the magnetic snap buttons on the front facings, placing a small piece of fabric under each. Fold the cut-on facings to the right side and stitch them to the neckline over the hood. From the ends of the facings, stitch the hood into the back neckline. Stitch the facings across the hem. Turn the facings to the wrong side.
- Stitch the sleeve seams. Overlock and press the seam allowances open. Press the sleeve hem allowance to the wrong side. Gather the sleeve cap with small, frequent stitches between the notches and pull the thread to match the corresponding distance on the armhole of the garment. Dampen the fabric and shrink the gathers with the tip of a hot iron. Pin the sleeve to the garment, matching control notches, and stitch, sewing from the sleeve side. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch the cut pieces from the lining fabric. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings. Hand-stitch the lining to the seam allowances of the hood seam and to the shoulder edges of the facings. Stitch the lining to the lower edges of the sleeves. Hem the lining. Hem the bottom of the coat.
- Fold the waistband (belt) right sides together and stitch along the long side and one short end, turn right side out and press the folds. Turning under the open edge, topstitch around the belt at 1.0 cm. Attach the belt to the side seams.
