Long Hood-Scarf-Collar Semi Raglan Coat
A women's long A-line coat with a hood whose front ends continue into scarf tails, front princess seams with welt pockets set into them, two-piece semi-raglan sleeves and lined turn-back cuffs. Single-breasted button front, fully lined.
When To Wear
- As a winter and late-autumn coat: the hood and the scarf tails cover the head and neck.
- Over dresses and skirts, which fit under the flared hem.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: A-line, widening from the bust to the hem through the front princess seams and the side seams.
Length: Below the knee.
Collar: Hood-scarf cut as right and left pieces, each in two layers: one layer is set into the coat neckline, the other into the facings. The scarf ends hang loose at the front; hood edge topstitched 1.5 cm from the edge.
Sleeves: Semi-raglan, cut in two parts: the front sleeve is set into the front armhole, the back sleeve into the back, joined by an upper seam. Shoulder pads.
Closure: Single-breasted, buttonholes on the right front, buttons on the left; two buttons are visible on the drawing. Front edges topstitched 1.5 cm from the edge.
Pockets: Vertical welt pockets in the front princess seams; welts topstitched 1.0 cm from the edge, pocket bags in lining fabric.
Back: Centre back seam.
Finishing: Turn-back cuffs in two layers (main fabric and lining) with an interfaced cuff underlay, topstitched 1.5 cm along the upper edge. Back neck facing and separate front facings.
Lining: Full lining, sewn to the facings, back neck facing and the lower edge of the cuffs.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A two-layer hood-scarf set between the coat and the facings, welt pockets worked into princess seams, two-piece semi-raglan sleeves, multi-layer cuffs and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Coating fabrics: lightweight wool coating (drap), velour, bouclé.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, lower halves of the welts, cuff underlay pieces, hem allowances)
- Buttons
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Back - 2 pieces
- 2. Back Neckline Facing - 1 piece
- 3. Center Front - 2 pieces
- 4. Side Front - 2 pieces
- 5. Center Front Facing - 2 pieces
- 6. Right Collar - 2 pieces
- 7. Left Collar - 2 pieces
- 8. Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
- 9. Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
- 10. Off-Set Welt - 2 pieces
- 11. Cuff - 2 pieces
- 12. Cuff Underlay Piece - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- 13. Cuff - 2 pieces
- 14. Back - 2 pieces
- 15. Front - 2 pieces
- 16. Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
- 17. Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
- 18. Pocket Bags - 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: reinforce the center front facings, back neckline facing, lower halves of the off-set welts and the cuff underlay pieces. Additionally, press fusible interfacing to the seam allowances for the hem.
Sewing Instructions
- Fold each off-set welt right sides together, stitch the short ends, turn right side out and press the folds.
- Topstitch along the edges of the welt at a distance of 1.0 cm.
- Align the open edges of the welt with the princess seam edge of the center front, placing the welt on the right side of the center front and aligning the upper edge of the welt with the notch; place the upper pocket bag on top of the welt and baste all layers together.
- Place the lower pocket bag on the right side of the side front.
- Stitch the welt and pocket bags.
- Stitch the front princess seams (center front to side front), leaving the pocket openings.
- Turn the pocket bags to the inside, trim them even and stitch them together.
- Stitch the short ends of the welts to the front along the existing topstitching.
- Stitch the front sleeves into the armholes of the fronts and the back sleeves into the armholes of the back.
- Stitch the upper (shoulder) sleeve seams.
- Stitch the underarm sleeve seams and the side seams of the coat.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the center front facings and the back neckline facing.
- Place the facings on the coat right sides together and stitch along the front edges.
- Stitch the two hood-scarf layers (made from the Right Collar and Left Collar pieces) together along the outer edge up to the neckline notch.
- Stitch one hood layer into the coat neckline, right sides together.
- Stitch the other hood layer to the back neckline facing and center front facings. Press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch the pressed-open seam allowances of the hood seam and the back neckline facing seam together.
- Stitch the main-fabric and lining Cuff pieces into rings.
- Stitch each main cuff to its lining cuff along the upper edge, turn and topstitch along the upper edge at a distance of 1.5 cm.
- Stitch the lower edge of the lining cuff to the cuff underlay piece, press the seam allowances open and topstitch.
- Stitch the cuff underlay piece to the lower edge of the sleeve.
- Hem: fold the center front facings forward (right sides together). Turn the hem allowances to the wrong side and sew.
- Turn the center front facings to the wrong side.
- Topstitch the front edges and hood at 1.5 cm.
- Sew on shoulder pads.
- Stitch the cut pieces from the lining fabric.
- Stitch the lining to the lower edges of the sleeve cuffs, the inner edges of the center front facings and the back neckline facing.
- Hem the lining.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.
